Bohey Dulang, Sipadan and the end of the rally ~ 04:35.75N 118:46.7E
Serenity of Swanwick
Phil and Sarah Tadd
Tue 27 Aug 2024 09:19
From W Bay to Kunak was a relatively short passage but the mapping of reefs in the area was out by up to 400 metres, so we had to navigate carefully using satellite imagery and with one of us on the bow looking out for shallows. Mapping of the anchorage was also not detailed, but it turned out to be relatively flat at 14 meters with plenty of room for us all. We were the guests of Farfiq Sparkle a recreation area with jetty and restaurant run by a family who own a lot of businesses locally. We were only here for three nights but a packed programme had been laid on for us, with High Tea on arrival and a welcome dinner that evening, a full day tour the second day then a morning of games on the final day and a farewell dinner! Sarah had been in increasing pain from Sciatica so opted out of the tour. Phil went on the first part which was a visit to a palm oil refinery. Palm oil is a mainstay of the economy in Malaysia where it is regarded as a sustainable source of oils as the trees fruit every month for up to 25 years. The games morning included some childhood favourites: hopscotch and jacks played with pebbles (much harder than the metal knucklebones and rubber ball we knew). Our dinghies take over the jetty at Kunak. The flags are Malaysia and Sabah The welcoming committee at Farfiq Sparkle Sarah trying to play jacks with pebbles These little motorboats are a favourite form of transport on the east coast of Sabah After a busy few days we were ready to relax at our next spot. Bohay Dulang, in the Tun Sakaran National Park is one of two islands forming the sides of a lagoon, with reef on the other sides. We had six nights planned here with no dinners or cultural events. We were free to climb the trail to the top of the island and snorkel the reefs around us. It was lovely to be swimming in clear water without fear of crocodiles again, and the activity resolved Sarah's sciatica. The anchorage taken from the top of Bohay Dulang The one trip we had planned for this week was to Sipadan Island. Sipadan Island is known as a world class dive site but also as the place where, in 2010, 18 tourists were kidnapped, taken to the Philippines and held for ransom. This incident was one that resulted in the formation of ESSCOM, the security collaboration that has been guarding the rally down the east coast of Sabah. There is still a strong police and military presence throughout this area. Most of the year visitor numbers at Sipaden are limited to 120, but on the 21st of August each year the participants on our rally get to go in addition to the 120. The day didn’t start well, with overcast skies and when we transferred to our dive boats in the nearby town of Semporna the heavens opened and we were soon all soaked. The rain was so heavy the driver had to stop the boat on a couple of occasions because he couldn’t see! The rain cleared by the time we got to Sipadan, but the skies remained grey and we felt cold for the first time in months. We have been a bit disappointed in the snorkelling recently, but not here. Although the coral wasn’t the best we have seen the sea life was amazing with huge shoals of fish, and some huge individuals. And there were so many turtles we rapidly lost count. We visited three sites and at each we saw something we hadn’t seen before, possibly due to having a guide with us to point things out. Not a good start to the day Landing at Sipadan Some of the things we saw: the ugly one is a lumpheaded parrot fish, then a baby black tip shark, a school of bannerfish and a green turtle The rally schedule had us anchoring at Semporna for the final rally dinner, but the Semporna anchorage didn’t look attractive with strong tides and lots of boat traffic so we ended up leaving our boats at Bohay Dulang and getting speedboats to take us to the town. The dinner, at a hotel, was quite an emotional affair as the fleet, most of which had been together for four or five months, would begin splitting up the next day and heading for a number of different destinations. We finished the evening with a birthday party for Manuel on board Anima. We had one more day in the lagoon before sailing to Tawau, just north of the Indonesian border. Here we are anchored off the Tawau Yacht Club while we wait for our Indonesian visas to come through. When the beach is swallowed by the tide in the evenings and alternative for sundowners is to raft up the dinghies and float across the lagoon We used to say we were not ‘rally people’ but the last few months have been a great experience, in particular the opportunity to sail round the top of Borneo seeing the amazing scenery and wildlife. We will miss the rally family, but are looking forward to travelling at our own pace again. Some of the rally friends we are going to miss |