Moroccan road trip
Trish and I
left the boat in Rabat for a week and hired a car to drive across to
Marrakech
and on through the High Atlas mountains. The 450km
trip across to Marrakech was surprisingly easy with a new motorway now
connecting Rabat to Casablanca and beyond to Marrakech. Motorways
are usually boring or stressful but the roads were almost deserted and
ran
across some fantastic landscapes ranging from fertile farmlands
to arid desert. The colour
of the soil ranged from vivid red to chalky white and volcanic black
with areas
of geological importance along the way. Even in the
remotest areas there was the ever present satellite dish on the roof
but you
would need to speak Moroccan Arabic to appreciate the
Moroccan version of Eastenders and Coronation Street! The Medina
in Marrakesh had a completely different feel to it than Fes, with cars
and
scooters allowed into the Medina’s narrow streets. But it also
had a greater vibrancy, more tourists and slightly pushier shop and
restaurant
staff. It also had a greater variety of shops and stalls and being
closer to central Africa some strange and wonderful sights, sounds and
smells.......... We had
decided that once again we wanted to stay within the medina in one of a
number
of old Riads that have been renovated and now cater as
upmarket B&B’s for tourists. Quite by chance we chose one in the
Mellah
what was once the old Jewish quarter, situated close to the King’s
palace for protection. There are very few Jews remaining now in
Marrakesh but
we were told that during the Nazi occupation of France the Vichy
government gave orders to the old King Mohammed V to hand over all Jews
in
Morocco. To the old
man’s everlasting credit he refused to do so! We had
great views from the roof of the Riad and could hear the hustle and
bustle of
the medina. The English couple that had completely rebuilt our
Riad were rightly proud of what they had achieved and there were many
differences between the style of Riads and those in Marrakech. Being in
Morocco at the time of Ramadan has given us an opportunity to see what
life is
like during the long days of fasting. With many visitors choosing
not to come to Morocco during Ramadan the medina was much quieter than
usual
and like a ghost town once the break fast had been called
around 7.00pm when food and drink could be taken for the first time
since
4.30am. There were
many workshops in the medina ranging from metalworkers, silversmiths,
goldsmiths, leather craftsman, tailors, dressmakers, etc, etc. Despite the
creation of school education for children up to 15, many families
cannot afford
the books needed and so put their sons into apprenticeships
while still quite young. We saw children from 7 or 8 upwards working in
the
small workshops some while they were off school for the
holidays and others in full time employment. The skills
of the craftsmen were quite amazing and this man was using a 1” chisel
and a
home made lathe to make handles for kebab skewers. It took him
about 3 minutes to make an intricate handle for Trish. With so
many shoe and sandal shops rish was in 7th heaven! I addition
to the Souks there are many historical monuments in Marrakech, Mosques,
Madersa’s, old palaces, etc. To be
continued!!!! |