Éowyn is at anchor in Nuku
Hiva, Marquesas in position 8:54.907S 140:05.972W
After leaving Fatu Hiva, we returned
to Hiva Oa briefly to get internet access and phone home.
On 6th April we enjoyed a fast reach
to Oa Pou only to discover that there was dredging in the main harbour of
Hakahau and because of the imminent arrival of the supply ship, we could not
anchor. this turned out to be as blessing in disguise as the alternative
anchorage at Hakahetau was as stunning as Fatu Hiva and very interesting to us.
The anchorage was rolly however and the dinghy landing was difficult - we had to
row in and hoist the dinghy ashore.
After an initial exploration and
spending some time to admire the dramatic peaks, we discovered paradise, or more
precisely a pineapple ice cream in the general store. we were also able to but
baguettes and tinned butter. By now we had met a local lad who spoke some
English He turned out to be the son of Etienne, the schoolmaster and local
bigwig. we were duly invited to lunch at their house the next day. The hike to
their dwelling took about 15 minutes and we were then able to experience at
first hand the subsistence lifestyle in the Marquesas. There are very few jobs
and people must be self sufficient, hunting boar and goat for meat and growing
their own fruit and vegetables. Is was goat for lunch with Taro root, preceded
by marinated seafood and followed by a doughnut like cake. we bought some fruit
from the family and insisted we pay for lunch and were then treated to typical
island generosity and they gave us many more fruits than we had
In the afternoon we watched the
monthly supply ship arrive complete with 100 tourists and in the evening we
watched the locals practicing for the forthcoming inter-island outrigger canoe
Leaving Oa Pou, we sailed to Nuku
Hiva where we have internet connection again. "Dreamcatcher" is in the wars
again with broken steering. a temporary repair was made by John and once Charles
insurance company is happy, we will lend them John for the passage to Tahiti and
Mike & I will sail Eowyn together.
We plan to leave for the Tuomotos on