Hi Everyone,

 

We sailed in 8 – 12 knots of light wind with cruising shute (sail),  the 32 n miles from Serifos to the Island of Paros. We sailed between a number of charted rocks and reefs at the entrance to the port of Paroikia—great on a balmy day. However, we gave a chilled thought to the passengers of the Samina Express ferry which hit the Paros rocks and sank on 26th September 2000 in a Force 8 gale. We remember seeing it on the news—sadly 80 people of the 500 on board were lost. A stark reminder that the islands are very beautiful but the Meltemi wind can become fierce.

 

We managed to get a spot on the town quay and set off to explore the waterfront and particularly the 13th century old Venetian town. The typical white Cyclades houses again mixed with Venetian architecture with lots of narrow alleyways.  The cafes, restaurants and shops are definitely up market and on the evening the light and atmosphere around the small streets is lovely.

We also ventured into the church of Katapoliani, the guidebooks suggest it is the finest example of Byzantine style in the Aegean.  The name means, ‘the church of 100 doors’ , it does in fact have  99 doors and windows--- the story suggests that when the 100th door is found that Constantinople ( Istanbul ) will return to the Greeks.

Paros is also famous for its marble, particularly in classical times, the Venus de Milo was formed from Paros marble and in 1844 the marble was once again mined for the tomb of Napoleon.

 

We had a lovely last meal together with Patrytk and Amanda in a courtyard restaurant, with a Venetian house adjacent --- 700 years old.  Many Athenians have houses/ holiday homes in the town and we were surprised by the sophisticated atmosphere and interior design evident in the old town.

The Greece we knew 10 to 16 years ago has certainly changed. The Ionian and Cyclades have really become sophisticated. The shops sell designer clothes not knick knacks, the bars and restaurants have designed interiors---- and the raw white-washed walls of the Cycladic buildings are perfect for minimalist stunning interiors--- straight out of design magazines.

In Paros town the large houses have walled courtyards, many of which now are open air vine covered restaurants.

 

Where are all the chequered table cloths we ask ourselves ?  Rod Heikall sums up the changes in his Greek Waters Pilot book, he quotes a friend who describes life on the Island of Meganisi, Ionian----‘In three generations you have grandpa who was a small holder and sometime sheep smuggler, his son who scraped together enough money to start a small grocery shop, and the grandson who is a paediatrician in Athens’.

It is great to see lives made better and very enjoyable to see the quality and sophistication we used to see in other Mediterranean countries---- but with this comes parity and international style and loss of identity.

 

Outside of Paros town the island has simple low–rise development and even the main resorts are not over-commercialised. We visited Lefkas, the ancient capital which has retained it’s old ‘Greek’ styling.  Even the small roads have one way arrows painted on the ground,   see photos of the taverna, church and narrow streets.

 

We Scootered around the island, enjoying the coastline and interior in very strong winds.  We had 30 knots, Meltemi a couple of days ago whilst safely tucked inside the small harbour. Several charter yachts left it too late to try to leave the outside of the harbour wall where they were anchored stern to.  The inevitable crossed anchors happened in 30 knots wind and there was carnage as boats T- boned one another, an outboard ripped off a rail and pretty unpleasant time had by all.  Car crash to watch—we helped as much as possible but finally it was a free floating yacht who towed people apart---chains around keels—etc.

We have a force 7/8 35knots plus coming in on Sunday so we are staying very safely tucked inside here until it all moves through, but wonder how things will pan out on the outside wall to windward again with the ten plus yachts moored.

 

Paros is a main ferry hub for large ferries to the surrounding Cyclades and to Athens.  Amanda and Patryk left by ferry on 19th to get back to Athens for their flight home.

We were sad to see them leave having had some great sailing, ,lots laughs, swimming, good food/fish BBQ ! and scooter rides together.

We don't have many photos of them as they are on their camera but we hope they like the pics we have chosen to put on the blog.

 

Photos of----------------

-Paros Rocks, Pariokia

 

- Pariokia, (Paros Town)

 

-The church of 100 doors

- Altar icons in tiny church in Paroikia

 

- Lefkas, Tiny taverna in the square, church, reflections of cafe life in Tony’s sunglasses, one way roads.

-Around the Island

 

- Scooter time and Shadows.

 

- After the carnage, two boats about to leave the dock.

 

Love to all

 

Tina and Tony   ( Amanda and Patryk ) x x x