Palma Nova, Mallorca 16th-17th September 39:31.17N 002:32.49E
Tioram 4
Tina & Tony
Sun 19 Sep 2010 17:00
On the morning of the 16th Sept, Tony, Ian and I woke up
anchored in Palma Nova Bay. We took the dinghy a short ride to the shore to
explore the town.
I was particularly looking forward to seeing the
area. My first holiday abroad was in Palma Nova, 39 years ago, I was nine
years old and I loved it. Mom and Dad, my sister and myself spent time
experiencing a new culture for the first time--- language, food, houses,
lifestyle and of course the beach and crystal clear water. I can remember nearly
drowning my sister,Gillian, trying to climb on her shoulders in deep water
having seen, 'something dark underneath us'---- no doubt the dreaded weed that
we attempted to anchor Tioram into 39 years later---- how could you plan that
life ?
I loved the 'difference'. The taste of different
food, the sights, sounds and scents of Palma Nova village with a
handful of hotels, the hills covered in pine forest and a brief visit to Magaluf
beach to play in front of perhaps the 2 or 3 hotels there.
To this day any scent of strong pine in warm
breeze or smell of strong cigar smoke from a cafe or scent of leather
(which came from the Mallorcan leather handbag shops)--- reminds me of my first
trip abroad. It seems that my thirst for travel and the 'different' started in
1971.
The 80's and 90's saw the boom of the tourist
market in Palma Nova and as most people know Magaluf grew into a large resort
loosing its Spanish village status and was consumed by the tour operator hotel
package market.
I never wanted to go back and to find the area
ruined. So 39 years later I tentatively stepped ashore in Palma Nova to
explore.
Yes the English bars and restaurants are
there, without a hint of 'Spanish' on the menu and yes there are many more
hotels. It is essentially 'Little Britain'. However the atmosphere in September
is very nice. The seafront, although more developed only extends a short
distance back from the beach. Some high rise but not the 'Benidorm' I expected.
The paseo/seafront is clean, tidy and nicely
designed, lots of tourist shops, but again pleasantly set out.
The once empty beach is now lined with thatched
umbrellas and loungers--- although in Sept, mainly empty. The water is
surprisingly still clear--- and nine years old girls still run in and out of the
sea.
The beach which backed onto rough land and pine
trees ( like a Greek island today), now backs on to the Paseo.
The scent of leather now gone--- no Mallorcan
handbag shops in sight, the strong smell of cigars from the Senor's in the
little Spanish corner cafes now gone, but the overwhelming scent of pine in warm
breeze still there as thankfully the development must have been stopped at some
point in the 39 years.
Ian enjoyed exploring, whilst Tony and I found the
hotel I had stayed in on that first holiday. Somehow instinct took me to it---
the same exterior--- but a very different interior. The plush sofa and lounges
gone but now the whole ground floor opened up into a trendy minimalist
interior.
We continued to walk around the town, seeing old
landmarks and a few remaining 1960's and 70's hotels which I had seen in the
past.
I have to say that I really enjoyed our visit. I'm
glad I didn't return in the 80's or 90's. Now the town seems to have reclaimed
itself, although very changed and no longer a village but a resort, it seems to
have shaken off the 18-30 image. Perhaps July / August would be different
but in Sept it is nice.
Tony and I met up with Ian who had also really
enjoyed the beach, seafront and shops. We scrambled back into the dinghy,
rescuing Ian from another early swim between the dinghy and the dock and giggled
our way back to the boat.
As we motored across the bay the flat calm water
revealed the heavy weed on the seabed, I looked back at the beach, some
familiar landmarks, the hotel , enjoyed the scent of the pine warm from the
hillside and marvelled that a nine year old girl could never have imagined the
sight of her boat, Tioram anchored in the bay, 39 years later having sailed
13,000 miles...............................
The next day we set sail for Palma de Mallorca to
explore the capital and to visit the Cathedral--- to see a beautiful rose
stained glass window, a little girl once saw and an older 'girl'
remembers........................
Love to all
Tina, Tony and Ian x x
Photos of Palma Nova..........
|