Tioram 4 - Menorca to Sardinia---'Not all plain sailing!!' 25th-29th September 39:40.30N 006:38.30E

Menorca to Sardinia---'Not all plain sailing!!' 25th-29th September 39:40.30N 006:38.30E

Tioram 4

Tina & Tony

Mon 4 Oct 2010 12:30

We left the marina in Mahon, Menorca on 25th September to head the 250 n miles to Sardinia. The forecast was for approx 20 knots plus of wind from the north together with wave direction. Our course heading, south east, would put the boat around 120' to the wind/sea direction, therefore running with it should the wind increase.

We motored out of the very sheltered bay into open sea and continued for about 5 n miles, but we were not comfortable with the curved tops of the 2 m wave height-- moving across us, sometimes on the beam. Tioram was fine and we have seen bigger waves in the Atlantic, but in the Atlantic the waves tend to be very large with long swells between them.

The sea outside of Menorca were steeper, closer together and curved ominously over the boat rolling us uncomfortably towards the next wave.

The saying always comes to mind at these moments---------'remember, this is for pleasure'. We both decided to return to the safety of Mahon and try the next day. Normally extra days stay in places sounds great but we need to get to Malta before the weather deteriorates.

Mahon's natural harbour is really protected so we were able to anchor in the bay for the night rather than return to the expensive marina.. The boat barely moved overnight in a great spot but the wind increased significantly and we were really pleased that we had turned back and not faced the wave state and direction /stronger weather at night.

The next day, 26th, the grib files (weather metrological information) showed a reduction in the wind speed from the same direction so we re stowed the boat, cooked our 2 overnight meals and set off.

We sailed out of Mahon for 6 n miles, the wind reduced a little and the waves were jumping rather than coming through with curved tops. We were undecided what to do because it wasn't very comfortable but we were flying along. We also knew that the forecast for the next day showed reduced winds again but coming around onto the bow. This could mean motoring for 2 days.

We decided to be cautious again incase the wind strength increased. We returned to the same anchorage in drizzle for another comfortable night--- and the wind did increase again-- so we felt we had made a good decision.

So on the 27th at 14.00hrs we set sail again but had to head north east as we couldn't sail into the head wind coming straight from Sardinia. At least the sun was out, we were warm and the swell was decreasing.

Later in the afternoon we started motor sailing allowing us to head straight on course. The nice sunset turned into a moonlit night. Those of you have done overnight sailing will know that a moonlit night can be almost semi daylight, which makes sailing and the night watch much easier---looking visually for contacts as well as on radar.

During the night the one of our contacts was the cruise ship 'Splendida' which passed to our stern bound for Tunis.

Two handed sailing is great but can be tiring on the night watches with only one on deck, swopping every 3 hours.

By 0600 hrs on 28th the wind backed a little and we started sailing again although in heavy rain and at best drizzle. We were still being pushed too far north off course so after a few hours we tacked and put in a few miles heading for Africa. Sailing is lovely on warm sunny days ,heading in the right direction, however, it can be soul destroying on a longer trip way of course, cold and in heavy rain.

So the motor went back on motor sailing and we were heading for Sardinia again. At 1300 hrs the wind finally backed to north easterly as predicted --- so the motor went off, full sails up and away we went. The wind increased to 22 knots and for the rest of the day we were flying with one reef in the main (reduced the size of the large sail) and genoa (forward sail ).

Tioram did a constant 8, 9 and topped 9.5 knots in calmer seas with the rain reducing. During this day we were visited by about 10 birds, all land birds. Two birds which looked very like kestrels attempted several times to land on our spreaders ( horizontal cross bars on mast ). The wind was so strong and the spreaders so wet, plus the violent movement from side to side at the top of the rig meant they just skidded off. They were also obviously afraid of being hit by the rig. Sadly they left, despite us keeping still, hoping they would choose an easier perch.

We also had some very small bundles of wet feathers, something like a sparrow. There is a photo of one which eventually negotiated the wind to land on the deck. Another stayed with us on the side deck for an hour, sliding around on the wet surface, eventually finding a spot out of the wind, dried itself, then ventured around the cockpit, rested, wouldn't eat the bread we tried and then flew off recharged towards the south west--- the wrong way--- hopefully it made it somewhere.

The strangest visitor was a robin which dived onto the boat like a damaged harrier jet limping onto the aircraft carrier. It missed everything, skimmed my yellow head ( in foul weather gear--- obviously a good target) and then landed 8 inches from my hand on the spray hood bar. Its tiny legs and red breast--- a long way from home--- it too rested a while and left.

Two other birds , similar to sparrows flew in, circled in the spray hood and fortunately didn't quite make it inside the boat. We felt sad for the little things, all blown off course and we hoped that Tioram gave them refuge to re charge and finish their journeys.

By 1700 hrs we had covered 166 n miles and were making good progress to Sardinia. The cold wind continued to increase as we reduced sail into the night and made good progress.

In the early hours of the 29th in 28/ 29 knots true wind we dropped the mainsail and continued to sail on a tiny genoa ( forward sail) for the last 35 n miles into the Golfo di Cagliari.

We knew we would be heading up into the wind as we rounded the coast. Surprisingly, as we passed the edge of the coast we didn't get the shelter from the wind that we were hoping for, also the seas were building.

We continued to sail into the Gulf and eventually gained calmer seas and reduced wind. The coastline is quite interesting with a series of historic signaling forts. Sardinia like Menorca has needed to protect itself through the ages from the countless invasions/occupations as well as pirate raids. The signaling forts run for most of the coastline and were used as an early warning system for the Sards who made their homes away from the sea.

We arrived wearily around 1200 noon and trickled along eating a 'pasta' lunch before mooring in the marina In Cagliari, the capital at around 1400 hrs---------282 n miles.

Photos of the crossing---'Not all plain sailing!!' and the Italian courtesy flag goes up in territorial waters--another first ! Sparrow on the deck---Forts-----Cagliari from the sea.

Love to all

Tina and Tony x x