Corfu stretches on a North to South axis and is a long narrow island. Corfu town sits on the east coast about a third of the way down the island.

If you arrive from the sea the fort built on the natural outcrop of rock is imposing and impressive. Its called the Palaio Frourio, originally 12 th century Byzantine castle, later developed by the Venetians and British.

A new marina sits at the base of it so we were able to go stern to the dock to go off exploring.

 

The town of Corfu is a great surprise to us. We expected a commercialised tourist centre with well worn tavernas and cafes, we didn't find it.  Certainly tourists visiting Corfu forty years ago would probably feel that the town is now touristy but we found it quite elegant and sophisticated.

 

The architecture is quite frankly stunning.  The combination of Greek with Venetian, French and British influence has produced an eclectic mix of four and five storey buildings with shuttered floor to ceiling windows, small balconies, grand doorways leaving the viewer wondering if you are standing in Paris, Rome or central London.

 

The four hundred year Venetian rule from 1386 has left a strong influence upon the towns Greek/ Corinthian roots. Also during the French occupation from 1797, the French constructed a regular street plan and added esplanades and arcaded buildings, the most impressive being the Liston on the Spianada esplanade---influenced by the Rue de Rivoli in Paris.

A wonderful British contribution is the Palace of St Michael and St George in neoclassical style, built for the use of a number of British High Commissioners.

Its facade is speckled with what look like large bullet holes, we guess from the second world war invasion—Italian or German ? Adjacent to it is a derelict but still beautiful Victorian spiral staircase curving down the vertical cliff---- it’s styling making it more insitu in Windermere.

The other British legacy is parks, squares ---oh and fruit cake, ginger beer and of course Cricket !! – there is an old cricket ground near the Spianada.

 

Corfu town today, despite it’s influences is undeniably Greek and proud.

The labyrinth of normal streets narrow down to alleyways. The larger streets housing hotels, minimalist cafes, sophisticated shops with, surprisingly,  smart designer brands-- the face of modern Greece. The narrow streets retain a more village quality with individual shops, panaderias, cafes, but the real life butcher, baker candlestick maker is harder to find.

 

We spoke to a Polish girl who has a business with her Greek boyfriend making hand-made leather shoes. Her boyfriends elderly father had run the business for many years supplying shoes to local people and subsequently tourists. Apparently an American gentleman went into the workshop recently asking, ‘Where is the old guy’, as his ten year old shoes needed replacing for new.

The workshop was fascinating, all sorts of leather and metal stamps to stamp in the company brand name.

 

We asked her to recommend good local places to eat, sadly she couldn't as she said that restaurants and cafes have become too expensive for local people to eat out for lunch.

Gone are the simple delightful Greek tavernas replaced by very nice, well designed but more international looking eateries and tourist menus--- and price tag to match.

We worked quite hard to find a really great cafe with home-cooked souvlaki and beef stifado---- well off patch and very nice.

 

Another great local find is the Patounis family Savonnerie, with five generations of olive soap making; the company established in 1850 in Zakinthos by one brother and by another in Corfu in 1891.

The Zakinthos workshop finally closed we think around 1950’s leaving only the branch in Corfu. We were told that they are the original company in Greece to make olive soap as small production with a 150 year history.

We arrived at the soap works unaware that they were about to close but Mr Apostolos Patounis very generously showed us his small batch production works (not unlike a Scottish distillery or French wine cellar) and kindly described the history and current processes of his company. We were surrounded by old wooden racks with hundreds of cut blocks of olive soap.  Large trays where the soap is left to solidify after being heated, the original stamp for marking the family brand and his grandfather’s cutting tools for chopping up the slabs into small blocks of soap.

He is hoping his children will continue the science and art of his Savonnerie. We felt privileged to see inside the old works and to meet the very proud owner.

 

Corfu town has a lot to offer, it does have it’s touristy cafes and trinket areas but this is a small proportion. However, we are very surprised to have found a real gem---perhaps also early season--- but  as we have mentioned it is very striking and to top it all the pastel coloured architecture, cafes, squares and parks are all by the shore of crystal Ionian waters.

Worth a visit for sure.

 

Photos below over two diary entry’s

 

Palaio Frourio, the Fortress.

 

Marina and Tioram

 

Palace of St Michael and St George.

 

Various photos of the town architecture, squares, cafes, arcades, esplanades.

 

Leather shoe workshop

 

Patounis Savonnerie—soap maker.

 

Love to all

 

Tina and Tony x x x