Tobago Cays 12:38.00N 61:22.00W

Tioram 4
Tina & Tony
Wed 20 Jan 2010 16:43
Tobago Cays.
10th- 14th Jan
 
Hi to everyone,
 
Well what can I say ---- the Tobago Cays or The Tobago Cays Marine Park ----if you would like to look it up on the internet--------- it must be paradise.
 
The Cays are surrounded by reefs and on one side to windward and facing the Atlantic ocean is a reef called Horse shoe reef.
It is hard to imagine that the full force of the Atlantic ocean coming from the East hits the reef ---dissipating the water into a calm large lagoon.
This provides a stunning anchorage----although a little exposed to the Atlantic winds. The water is shallow sandy bottom, perfect holding for anchoring and just like a private swimming pool.
 
The small islands are just dots of rock with lots of vegetation , palm trees and sand. They are not inhabitated and are literally desert islands. The only people there are on boats.
The sea is a crystal colour we have never seen before, with incredible clarity. We swam around the boat and off a beach where we saw 4 Hawksbill turtles grazing on the weed on the sea bed.
We also took our dinghy to the reef where the marine rangers have laid buoys for dinghies to moor to and to swim from. The fish were incredible, some bright yellow / ultramarine blue. I have to say I was very pleased that they were small. It has taken me a few months since we arrived in the med and Caribbean to start to feel ok in open sea water.
 
I used to swim happily off my dad's dinghy as a child in Wales in deep, cold and murky water without a fear or thought. Sadly I was of the generation who watched Jaws the movie at about the age of 13. Well that was the end of that.
 
34 years later, I lower myself into crystal clear , gorgeous water --------- but I can still hear the theme tune--------der de der de der de der der !!!!
 
Needless to say poor Tony had to put up with me swimming around the reef , bottom in the air doing 360's in the water with my snorkel and mask----just checking for sharks.
Not really sure if I really could walk on water if I saw one!!
 
Funnily enough I once had a student whom I confessed my fears to. We kept in touch after he left our course but some years later he found a great old  postcard which he kindly posted to me entitled----' How to fend off a Shark'.
 
Despite all the swimming was fab and we had a lovely time. We will post some photos alongside this blog for you to enjoy.
 
We also enjoyed watching the ' boat boys'. Local men and boys from neighbouring islands such as Union and Petite Martinique ( no where near Martinique) brave the open water in fast , home built boats. They offer to help you to take a mooring buoy, some are legit others tied to small lumps of concrete on the seabed which would not hold you. We always anchor for safety.
They also bring local catches of fish and live lobster to the boats. It is a great way of getting your evening meal delivered whilst on a desert island. Sadly Tony and I are too soft to manage to kill a poor lobster or gut a fish so to date we haven't sampled the delights.
 
The 'boat boys' also bring fruit, veg, and fresh bread if you want it. A really nice muscular guy with a perfect smile,  a gentle manner, deep voice called Walter talked us into fresh bread and choc au pan for our breakfast the following day. How could we refuse--- it is also nice to support guys who are making a living in this way.
 
The ' boat boys' have the most brightly coloured boats. Pink with red, ultramarine blue, black and lime green---- and that was just Walter's  boat. To add to that the boats are all named, such as,   Be strong flex, Hard fight, Love Dem, Phat Shag, My Desire, De Best................ I could go on.
 
We stayed for 4 nights and had a lovely time. We woke up every morning to the most beautiful view as we climbed the companionway steps and looked off the back of the boat to see aqua  water.
The sunsets were also amazing------------it's hard to describe the beauty of the place---- it will be hard to follow.
 
We left the Tobago Cays for Union Island but found it difficult to get our anchor to set in the hard sand/mud of the bay. We were surrounded by boats and two shallow reefs.
Our nerves were still not up to any close encounters in the night , so we left and sailed to an island called Mayreau. The joy of all these islands is they are only a few miles apart and you can see them all.
 
We anchored in Saline Bay , Mayreau for the night.
 
Tales of Mayreau and Photos to follow on the next blog,
 
Love to all,
 
Tina and Tony x x x
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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