Sardinia, Cagliari. 39:12.67N 009:06.89E
Tioram 4
Tina & Tony
Mon 4 Oct 2010 12:32
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One of the great things about having a boat is that when
you make landfall it is often into the heart of a place. In this case it is a
city Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia.
The boats nestle against the busy 'Via Roma' five lane
road made of textured flag stones. The traffic is relentless in true Italian
spirit, the occasional sound of horns which chaperone newly weds and
the timeless emergency sirens which remind you of the film the 'Italian
Job'.
We walked along the Via Roma feeling immediately
transported into Italian culture or should we say Sardinian culture, as we are
told the Sardinians regard themselves as Sard's first before being
Italian.
We always marvel at the cultural changes you see when
crossing borders and in our case territorial waters. Only 282 nautical
miles after leaving Menorca, the Via Roma thrusts you into Italian culture,
glorious civil buildings have grand facades, rendered and painted in
timeless Italian pinks, ochre's and burnt umber.
There is wonderful colonnade fringed with columns on one
side and shops and cafes to the other. The tables and chairs spill out of
the cafes, local people and tourists gather together and there is a
great scent, a mix of strong coffee and tobacco. As you walk along you
witness the Italian gestural conversation in full flow.
We followed a gentleman, perhaps in his eighties to a
zebra crossing on the 'Via'. We stopped at the kerb and then watched open
mouthed as he lifted his umbrella and walked slowly but purposely across the 5
lane highway----cars screeching to a halt as he reached the other
side-----closely followed by us !!
The old city of Cagliari is built on a hillside. It
has a diverse history---Phoenician, Punic, Roman and Byzantian
,Spanish and Sardinian. The central area protected by the grand
fortifications of the 'castello' walls and towers of the beginning of 14th
century.
We have enjoyed exploring the old city, enjoying the
architecture, the great views out to sea from the high fortress walls and
'people watching'. The streets are very narrow, we guess built to create
shadowed walkways from the heat. The 4/5 storey buildings are faced with
individual wrought iron balconies and shuttered windows.
The old city is most definitely alive and being lived in,
although some areas are in need of some renovation.
The catedralle di Santa Maria, Cathedral of Saint Maria
has a stunning facade however, the treat is inside with a
spectacular interior and a gem-like ornate crypt.
The narrow streets lead to 'Piazzas' which were once open
public spaces but now house cars. Tiny Fiat 500's and other small cars rush up
and down the narrow streets only stopping at 3 way traffic lights. They brush
past open doorways at 'Italian' speed---- like the scooters of
Greece-----comical ,but dangerous if you live there and dare risk a step
out of your front door. It made us think again of the mini's in the
'Italian Job'.
We were drawn to another church where we sat listening to
an organ playing at the end of a service, thundering out Beethoven---timeless.
A lovely old lady gestured to us that it was too loud for her and left but
as we left we found her standing outside enjoying the music----at her
level.
The 'new' city of Cagliari is cosmopolitan with squares,
cafes and fashion shops for beautiful people.
Sardinia is certainly a beautiful island of which we have
only seen a little. However we have found the people very friendly and helpful,
the architecture interesting and the food great.
One of the reasons we chose to come to Sardinia was to
meet up with some friends Lorenzo and Mabi, whom we met on the ARC. We enjoyed a
lovely day exploring the unspoilt coastline and a nice evening tasting food
with a native Sardinian. We would like to say thank you again for your
hospitality.
Our next destination is Sicily. We have been delayed again
due to strong head winds with 3 m waves, so we are watching the weather
forecasts again to find a safe window for the 180n miles.
Photographs of............
'Via Roma' and Colonnade--cafe culture
Old city--Architecture, streets and
fortifications
Catedralle di Santa Maria--ornate interior, candles for
loved one's lost.
Around the old/new city of Cagliari.
Sardinian 'Pizza'
Love to all
Tina and Tony x x x
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