Sicily to Malta---' Grand Harbour Arrival' 35:55.46N 014:31.42E

Tioram 4
Tina & Tony
Fri 22 Oct 2010 21:20
Well after 6 days storm bound in Sciacca we were going a bit stir crazy.
The sea area between the south coast of Sicily and Tunisia, the Sicilian channel is relatively shallow. The Mediterranean shelves from 2800 meters to 200 with scattered shallows of 26, 31 and others 12, 8.8 and even 6.9m at 30 miles off the coast of Sicily. This leads to a confused and treacherous sea if it is combined with gale force winds. We watched the weather forecasts carefully, keen to complete the last 120 miles to Malta. The strong head winds and at night spectacular high level electric storms kept us in Sciacca along side two other French boats trying to head for Tunisia.
 
Finally we got a weather window with wind from the west/ north west, stronger than we wanted but (running down wind) from behind the boat, giving us a fast crossing.
We set off at 14.00 hrs on 14th Oct with 16 to 20 knots true wind, a lumpy cross sea but we were on our way. We made great progress overnight and in increased wind strength we had to take our mainsail down and just run on the Genoa ( forward sail ) to slow down as we wanted to arrive in Malta in day light.
 
During the night with 56 miles to go we could see a large glow of light- from Malta and Gozo. It looked like dawn but it was too far south east and at 1 am. The glow continued until it later became lights on the coast. We also clearly saw the lights of Sicily right until dawn with 30 miles to go to Malta--- both shorelines clearly visible.
 
We sailed past Gozo, Comino and around 0900/1000 hrs sailed down the coast of Malta past St Paul's bay, St Julian's and by 1100hrs we were approaching Valletta.
At 12 miles out,  all ships are required to call Valletta Port control for permission to enter. We felt quite insignificant surrounded by large tankers, one carrying part of an oil rig platform and a French naval warship.
The French warship called for about 30 mins without a successful reply, so little Tioram wasn't going to get an answer.  We tried later once the early morning rush was over and were given permission to enter the Grand Harbour.
 
This was a very special moment.   In life we have our 'wish list' of boxes to tick and this is one of them. 
My Mom and Dad have spent many happy holidays wintering in Malta. Tony and I joined them for short one week breaks on two or three occasions. One of the great treats we had was to sit cross-legged on the 3 meter thick fortress walls of the Upper Barracas, Valletta approximately 250ft above the water. It is a fabulous vantage point which overlooks the Grand Harbour, Valletta. The spectacle  opposite is The Three cities and the many historical buildings are quite something. If you are lucky enough to see it in low sunlight, the local ochre stone buildings are illuminated, almost golden.
 
Tony once sat and watched a single yacht gently motor out of the harbour way beneath us. The still, calm water reflecting the light only stirred by a line of twisted water coming from the propeller.
We both said wouldn't it be wonderful if we could be lucky enough to sail into the Grand Harbour with our own boat. Mom and Dad kindly bought us the Maltese courtesy flag. The small courtesy flag of the country being visited is hoisted onto the mast as a boat enters the countries territorial waters.
 
The flag has hung in our lounge for about 10 years----waiting patiently. And so on the 15th Oct it was hoisted on Tioram as we sailed into the Grand Harbour, luckily in glorious morning sunshine. The Three cities and Valletta illuminated by the sunshine, the Upper Barracas proudly high above us---- and although this seems like an exaggeration---- at the same time a single propeller sea plane flew very low over our heads and landed a safe distance ahead of us.
The Grand Harbour has a great sense of history, almost timeless. The seaplane was almost a 1930's sight------- and it all ticked the box.
 
 
Photographs of arrival, Grand Harbour,Upper Barracas, Valletta, Three Cities, Sea plane.
 
Love to all,
 
Tina and Tony x x x

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