14:44.00N 61:10.85W
Tioram 4
Tina & Tony
Wed 24 Feb 2010 18:38
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Martinique 16th Feb -24rd Feb
Marin, Diamond Rock, Anse Matin, Fort de France, St
Pierre.
We sailed out of Rodney Bay for the last time and watched
as the green lush vegetation of the hills, Pigeon island and coastline
turned back from colour to silhouetted greys and black. Just the opposite of how
we had arrived almost 2 months ago from the Atlantic on the 11th
Dec.
I've seen this change of colour twice now, once 5 years
ago when we arrived on the ARC Challenge yacht and again in December.
It has seemed symbolic on both occasions as you cross an ocean and come
into land----in particular the parties and colour of the Caribbean is the
reward.
Stephen Spielberg used black and white and then colour
film brilliantly and symbolically in the film Schindlers
list--------
So as we left St Lucia and the colour dimmed I felt a
slight pang of sadness to see the island moving away on our stern. Perhaps
we'll have to do another ARC to see it all again.
The sail from Rodney bay to Martinique, 23 miles beam
reaching-- (wind 90' to boat) in 20knots , with 8 knots boat speed was
great. The cross sea from the open Atlantic from the East was lively but Tioram
skipped along.
We arrived in Marin on the south corner of Martinique and
anchored in a large estuary, very sheltered and hardly a ripple on the
water. Great anchorage and a well known ideal place in the Caribbean to get
anything you need for a yacht from an 'o' ring to a whole engine, rigging
etc.
We have been using the Chris Doyles
'bible' guide book to sailing in the Caribbean. He gives excellent
information about passages from one island to another, anchorage info,
chandlery's and the all important restaurants.
His guidance for sail makers etc was excellent and we
found a very good sail loft to repair our ripped spinnaker and cruising
shute sails. Also a good chandlery for a new 50m main halyard which broke
on our Atlantic crossing( rope vertically on the mast to the main large
sail)
Marin is a great place for all boating needs as well
as French supermarkets for flown in products--- unobtainable elsewhere
in the Caribbean. However with the Euro as it is to sterling we found it
expensive , especially the 50m of halyard rope at nearly 9 euros
a metre.
On our first day in Marin we went to the local fruit and
veg market to get groceries. It seemed a little odd to see the girl serving us
in full black and white 'bondage', complete with white and black fish nets and
an American type policemen's hat. Along side her another girl tastefully
but oddly dressed in 17th century plantation style full length black and white
gown.
Our thoughts got even more confused when we saw a man in
full make up, dress , wig and there seemed to be lot of black and white fish net
around----picture Village people meets voodooesque. We were relieved to
find later that evening that we had arrived in the carnival time and the black
and white 'gear' represents she-devils and mourners for the king of carnival
'Vaval'----------------what a relief !!! We thought fruit and veg would never be
the same again!!!
We sailed from Marin north along the protected
West coast, passing a number of lovely looking anchorages and the famous
Diamond rock. The rock sits strategically approx one mile off the
south/ west coast of Martinique. It was once known as HMS Diamond
named by the British navy in 1804. Someone in the navy realised that it was an
excellent place to moor a ship to guard the coast line. With ships being a
rarity at the time the rock was converted to an HMS. Brave souls climbed the
steep rock and fended off attacks from the French---- in their last battle
held out cut off for 18 months. Presumably with stored rations and rain
water.
We tipped our hats and thought of the brave men of
HMS Diamond (rock) as we passed and I managed to get a great photo of the
rock and our red ensign symbolically together in
remembrance.
We continued our sail north and anchored for the
night in Anse Matin and used our newly purchased BBQ.
The next day we lifted anchor and sailed the 3 miles to
Fort de France the capital. We had heard that it was quite sophisticated and
very French with boutique and shops etc. It was pleasant but we were
disappointed by some of the trinkety shops for the cruise liner's. We decided to
return to Anse Mitan for the night and set sail today for St Pierre where we are
now anchored. St Pierre was the paris of the caribbean until in 1902 Mount Pelee
erupted. You can see it on photo as we neared St Pierre.
This is an ideal place on the north west side of the
island for clearing customs.
We are about to go ashore now and hope to strike off in
the morning early for a 53 mile sail to Portsmouth on the north west coast of
Dominica. Sadly we will only stay for an overnight sleeping anchorage as
there have been problems of boats being broken into---once with a couple on
board. We are told this has now been sorted but would have preferred to
sadly miss out this beautiful island for safety. We didn't fancy the 73
mile in one go to the island of the Saints off Guadeloupe. Instead it will be 20
miles from Dominica to Les Saintes.
So off to shore, customs, internet cafe, hopefully to
upload these photos and we'll be in touch.
Love to all
Tina and Tony x x x x
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