On 9th July we left Sikinos after a restless night at anchor and started to motor north into a head wind to Naxos town on the west coast of Naxos.

We motored for a few hours with the wind and the sea state increasing, finally giving up and started sailing North East with 2 reefs in the main sail and a little genoa.

The wind increased to 30 knots with the seas building. We had a good look at the pilot book for an alternative safe anchorage and with a change of course more easterly, Tioram was fine and we went into our usual mode of lifejackets and clipped onto the boat.

We headed for Kolondo on the south tip of Naxos. The seas were getting quite rough, boiling a little with sea spray and we were pleased to get into the lee (shelter) of Naxos.

 

Once under the south tip the wind decreased to 10 knots and then in an instant—just like a switch--- the wind died---- sails flopped--- we put them away and motored in astonishment, into the bay of Kolondo.

We anchored in super calm conditions, if anything with a whisper of Southerly wind------ weird.

 

Lovely day spent at anchor and excellent calm night---- not as forecast.  So thinking that the forecast may not be correct and the strong NW wind may have reduced overnight ---the next morning on 10th July we left anchor to motor up the west coast to Naxos town.

As we turned the south tip again, the wind increased, the sea was just as rough and had no doubt roared all night--- so we turned back after a 5 mile round trip, anchoring back in the stunningly calm bay again, with a light southerly,----- very weird.

 

The wind stayed calm all day and night and on morning of 11th, we lifted anchor in 0.0 knots wind from the bay and headed north again. We rounded the south tip, this time fine and as we continued north the head wind increased to 17 knots and topped out around 30 knots, decreasing to 28 as we neared Naxos town.  The seas built as the wind and sea pushes through the channel between the Islands of Paros and Naxos.

 

The harbour in Naxos town is on the exposed NW tip of the island and the confused seas as we neared were not pleasant. There are rocks, a reef and the wreck of a submerged ferry to steer clear of.

We expected not to get into the inner harbour as we thought it would be full--- not many ‘fools’ leaving-- but there is a safe anchorage inside the outer breakwater.

However, the local mooring gentleman, Nikolas, found us a great mooring, the entrance was a bit tricky with the swell running and inside the inner harbour there are rocks and a 2m shallow, but Tony did a great job in strong winds backing into the slot whilst I dropped the anchor-----phew---- landho!!!!!!!

 

We have now been in Naxos town for 3 days and the Meltemi wind is still howling. It is sunny, hot and with a warm wind but the sea state was rough yesterday off the coast.   We are trying to head North for Mykonos, but heard that yesterday, the large ferry was prevented from leaving Mykonos port by port police for 2 hours until the sea state moderated.

The forecast shows decreasing winds by the weekend, so we are sitting safe and pretty until its good to go.

 

We scootered yesterday around the island, which is the largest in the Cycades. It is the commercial ‘centre’ of the Cyclades but also boasts great wine.

Historically, the chora in the town and kastro has Greek, Turkish and Venetian influences.  The inner countryside of the Tragaia valley is very pretty, fertile with natural springs which led ancient Greeks to build settlements, sanctuaries and temples in the area.  From 2,500 years ago the islands Marble quarries have been used to produce huge 5 and 6 meter long sculptures, two of which we visited still lying the quarry as possibly ‘unfinished’ or due to ‘broken legs’.

 

The port and waterfront atmosphere is fab, it is  becoming more crowded as the tourist season kicks in but the holiday atmosphere is very nice--- good taverna's and prices much more affordable with the friendly competition.

 

We hope to head for Mykonos as soon as the weather allows us.

 

Photos below------

 

Kolondo Bay--- south tip of Naxos Island

 

Trying to sail North

 

Naxos town and waterfront

 

Around the island, the Tragaia valley, the marble quarries and the ‘unfinished, ancient statues.

 

Love to all

Tina and Tony x x