On 9th July we left Sikinos after a restless night at anchor and started to
motor north into a head wind to Naxos town on the west coast of Naxos.
We motored for a few hours with the wind and the sea state increasing,
finally giving up and started sailing North East with 2 reefs in the main sail
and a little genoa.
The wind increased to 30 knots with the seas building. We had a good look
at the pilot book for an alternative safe anchorage and with a change of course
more easterly, Tioram was fine and we went into our usual mode of lifejackets
and clipped onto the boat.
We headed for Kolondo on the south tip of Naxos. The seas were getting
quite rough, boiling a little with sea spray and we were pleased to get into the
lee (shelter) of Naxos.
Once under the south tip the wind decreased to 10 knots and then in an
instant—just like a switch--- the wind died---- sails flopped--- we put them
away and motored in astonishment, into the bay of Kolondo.
We anchored in super calm conditions, if anything with a whisper of
Southerly wind------ weird.
Lovely day spent at anchor and excellent calm night---- not as
forecast. So thinking that the forecast may not be correct and the strong
NW wind may have reduced overnight ---the next morning on 10th July we left
anchor to motor up the west coast to Naxos town.
As we turned the south tip again, the wind increased, the sea was just as
rough and had no doubt roared all night--- so we turned back after a 5 mile
round trip, anchoring back in the stunningly calm bay again, with a light
southerly,----- very weird.
The wind stayed calm all day and night and on morning of 11th, we lifted
anchor in 0.0 knots wind from the bay and headed north again. We rounded the
south tip, this time fine and as we continued north the head wind increased to
17 knots and topped out around 30 knots, decreasing to 28 as we neared Naxos
town. The seas built as the wind and sea pushes through the channel
between the Islands of Paros and Naxos.
The harbour in Naxos town is on the exposed NW tip of the island and the
confused seas as we neared were not pleasant. There are rocks, a reef and the
wreck of a submerged ferry to steer clear of.
We expected not to get into the inner harbour as we thought it would be
full--- not many ‘fools’ leaving-- but there is a safe anchorage inside the
However, the local mooring gentleman, Nikolas, found us a great mooring,
the entrance was a bit tricky with the swell running and inside the inner
harbour there are rocks and a 2m shallow, but Tony did a great job in strong
winds backing into the slot whilst I dropped the anchor-----phew----
We have now been in Naxos town for 3 days and the Meltemi wind is still
howling. It is sunny, hot and with a warm wind but the sea state was rough
yesterday off the coast. We are trying to head North for Mykonos,
but heard that yesterday, the large ferry was prevented from leaving Mykonos
port by port police for 2 hours until the sea state moderated.
The forecast shows decreasing winds by the weekend, so we are sitting safe
and pretty until its good to go.
We scootered yesterday around the island, which is the largest in the
Cycades. It is the commercial ‘centre’ of the Cyclades but also boasts great
Historically, the chora in the town and kastro has Greek, Turkish and
Venetian influences. The inner countryside of the Tragaia valley is very
pretty, fertile with natural springs which led ancient Greeks to build
settlements, sanctuaries and temples in the area. From 2,500 years ago the
islands Marble quarries have been used to produce huge 5 and 6 meter long
sculptures, two of which we visited still lying the quarry as possibly
‘unfinished’ or due to ‘broken legs’.
The port and waterfront atmosphere is fab, it is becoming more
crowded as the tourist season kicks in but the holiday atmosphere is very
nice--- good taverna's and prices much more affordable with the friendly
We hope to head for Mykonos as soon as the weather allows us.
Kolondo Bay--- south tip of Naxos Island
Trying to sail North
Naxos town and waterfront
Around the island, the Tragaia valley, the marble quarries and the
‘unfinished, ancient statues.
Love to all
Tina and Tony x x