We enjoyed a 20n mile sail in 12 knots of breeze to Livadi on the Island of
Serifos. From the sea we could see the ‘Chora’ or ‘Upper Village’ high
above the peninsular we were sailing around into the bay. The Chora was often
built on high land and inland to protect from the many pirate attacks through
The waterfront town of Livadi is a lovely bay with great anchorages and a
quay for stern to mooring. We managed to get a good spot for 2 nights allowing
us to hire scooters to tour the island.
Serifos is one of the most beautiful islands we have visited to date. It is
very lightly developed, the bay has enough tavernas and corner shops to make it
comfortable for visitors but the rest of the Island is sparsely populated.
The Chora on the steep hill 2km north of the bay is the archetypal vision
of the Cycladic architecture. Sugar cube houses perched on the rocks and
cliff face and the occasional blue dome of the small churches--it is so like the
photos you see of Santorini.
The four of us scootered up to the top and wondered around the tiny
alleyways, the pavements made of ‘crazy paving’, all the joints painted white.
It is still a real village--- no trinket shops and only a small handful of
tasteful cafes in the tiny square. The houses are like marzipan square cakes,
iced and molded at the tops of the walls where the flat roofs join. Beautiful
doors, window shutters, bougainvillea flowers, jasmine and very calm. We all
enjoyed an iced coffee in a simple but visually lovely little cafe in the tiny
We climbed the steps to the pinnacle and to two tiny churches, photographic
heaven and the view back down to the bay of Livadi and Tioram on the quay—almost
felt like from an aeroplane.
The interior of Serifos is equally stunning, lush, green fertile valleys
between the volcanic summits. The steep hillsides are all terraced, but unlike
the terracing you see in Spain and Italy—the terraces are all walled with
ancient dry stone walls--- some streaking vertically on difficult
inclines. The need for fertile, agricultural land must have been essential
at some time in history.
We gave a thought to all the men and women who toiled over the construction
of these walls--- and in the fairly deserted island--- where had all those
people gone to ???
On one valley we looked down the steeply terraced hills--- looking almost
like a picture from China or Tibet---- a white monastery and on a lower plateau
three horses magically standing---almost like unicorns in a mystical
We continued around the island and to the north past the monastery and
found a tiny church. We have included the photos of the church below. It was in
a deserted place, the small door locked and the key left in the lock. We
ventured into the jewelled little interior, 8ft by 14ft and used the oil lamp to
light 2 candles to pop into a sand bowl to remember our loved ones lost for each
Tony commented that we have now lit candles for our loved ones in a number
of magnificent places--- along our travels---- they would be so pleased.
We continued to scooter along before realising that we were running on
petrol vapour and were well out in the sticks. Patryk and Amanda had gone to a
lovely beach we had all seen when the four of us scootered around the coastal
paths on the south of the island.
The northern interior was pretty deserted and the very few houses looked
empty and not a source for fuel. We have never done this before. We held our
breath climbing back up the steep mountains and hair pin bends---coasting on the
flat plains and managed to make the highest point--- big relief--- and coasted
most of the way back--- laughing and rocking backwards and forwards on the flat
spots to keep the scooter moving----- finally coming to a halt near a sign
saying 500m to petrol !!!! pheww!! Would have been a long walk.
Amanda and Patryk had a nice swim on the beach in the lovely hot sun and
light breeze and we all met up for a fish BBQ on board, which they kindly
Lovely day for all of us.
The photos of the island probably don’t convey the panoramic beauty—but
hopefully you get a taste of it. Put it on your not to be missed Greek island
list----easily reached by ferry.
-Arriving from the sea---the Chora on the hill
-Views from the Chora of Livadi Port
-Stunning archetypal Greek church on North coast / and interior
Love to all
Tina, Tony, Amanda and Patryk. x x