Tilos is a delightful place with a pretty harbour front enhanced by little flower beds which served as our temporary “front garden” on the quay by our boat.  The only down side was the unusually officious harbour mistress (German rather than Greek in this case) who ordered the incoming yachtsmen about so vociferously that one was heard to reply to her “take it easy, we’re not married yet” – a wonderful line!  The very small population was temporarily inflated by the presence of a bunch of refugees who had arrived a few days earlier and scuppered their boat.  They seemed to be given the run of the place and a communal supper every night in the garden behind the police station and such a gentle approach from the local authorities was endearing.

On our second day here we walked up the hill to the now deserted old “micro horio” (little village) where there was a tiny Byzantine church with some still vivid 14^th century frescoes.  Greek islands always sited their main settlements up high and away from the coast and the dangers from pirates and would be invaders.  En route we saw many goats of all colours as well as various intrepid elderly walkers as this is an island offering lots of walking opportunities for the energetic.