Day 16 - Cape May NJ - Beverly MA
Phil, Di and Annelise
Fri 15 Jun 2018 17:29
Hauled both anchors - heavily dug into the black mud of the cove, ready to transit Cape Cod Canal at mid-day. Entered behind "Sapphire Coast" (a small freight ship) and another yacht. When the canal was first opened in 1914, it was 15ft deep and less than 100ft wide, and accidents were frequent. During both world wars the canal was heavily used by freight traffic to avoid German U-boats, which lurked offshore. Today it is reported to be the world's widest sea level canal (no locks) at 540ft wide and 32 ft deep and saves a 135nm journey around the Cape itself. Two 135ft high road bridges and a bascule railway bridge cross the canal. The bascule bridge was lowered just as we had it in sight, but thankfully only a short train before it was raised for our passage!
An hour later, the tide and current had began to build against our easterly progress - taking almost 3 knots of ground speed! Nevertheless, we enjoyed the views of hamlets and industry, walkers, bikers, fishers and the bird life nesting on both sides. Exiting a narrow causeway (considerably less than 500 ft wide) into Cape Cod Bay just in time, as a tug and enormous barge was positioning to enter!
The cold waters north and east of the Cape Cod are the birthplace of much of America's maritime heritage. Every harbour and almost every rocky ledge carries a piece of American history or legend of the sea. We choose to head further east across the bay to Provincetown - nestled inside the very "hook" of the Cape. The sandy spit, well marked with a lighthouse heralded our entry, slipping past inquisitive seals popping up beside the spit.
Mooring bouy secured close to the shore (a mere $71 per night, versus $4/ft for the dockside - we were warned it got more expensive further north!), views to the village church and tower and evening schooners gently cruising the bay as the sun dropped from the afternoon sky and the lights of the Provincetown shone across the still waters..
Phil and Di