I leave Lovina and quickly run out of wind. The wind here comes and goes. As does the current, from no predictable direction. Next morning, at first light, I see a volvano off my starboard bow. It is not on the chart. One hour later the 'volcano' comes into better view. It is a vast barge loaded with an even vaster pile of aggregate being towed by a tug. The tug has no AIS signal, the barge no lights. At night there are the squid fishing boats; thousands of them. Up to 80 feet long, but some only 20 feet and they shine huge search lights into the water to attract the squid. These wooden boats have no radar image and because their lights have different brightnesses it is impossible to tell if they are one mile away or five. Then I come into the Java Sea oil field. Lots of platforms well lit up. I can see the first burn off flame from 20 miles. But the dozens of boats servicing the platforms have no lights or ones you cannot see. Charts are frequently inaccurate. The combination of everything makes Indonesia the most difficult place I have ever sailed.

After three days I arrive arrive in Karimun Jawa a nervous wreck. Our next destination in Kumai to see the orangutans is cancelled due to the smoke from the forest fires which I know many of you have been reading about. An Indonesian disaster which they do not seem to be tackling too quickly.

News comes through of one boat dismasted. Several other rally boats are quickly on the scene to assist and soon all in well. Except for the mast that is.

My knee is healing but ever so slowly. It still needs to be carefully washed and dressed every day to keep any new infection out. Another couple of weeks should do it. Next stop Belitung...