Tuamotos

Wildfox
Anthony Swanston
Thu 13 Jun 2013 03:03
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
A quick visit to Ua Pou, in particular its church with magnificent wood carving and then it was off to the Tuamotos about 500 miles away.  The weather ahead was not looking good and some of the boats further south changed their destination (we are all in contact by radio twice a day).  I slowed down and arrived at the atoll of Kauehi with the light and current just right.  The land on these atolls is just a few feet high.  If it were not for the 60 foot palm trees you would not see them until you hit them.  Once through the narrow pass there are plenty of coral heads lurking just below the surface.  My insurance premium is due in a couple of days and it fully reflects this risk, particularly for a single hander in an area where lifeboats and search and rescue are unknown.
 
There were about eight boats at anchor in a spot that passed the long stem wine glass test- it was safe to use such an item on the dinner table.  There are not many anchorages so calm.  The water is turquoise,  beaches are sandy, palms swaying and  huge flocks of shearwaters feed on small fish.  A long walk on the ocean side was beautiful; on the Sunday afternoon we had a beach party with everybody bringing food to share.  Six nationalities attended.
 
When it was time to go I was away at 0445 to get the current right at a time when there was also light to see.  Sails up and away to Fakarava 45 miles away.  The wind was light and it was a lovely downwind sail across.  Of course at the pass in the wind suddenly got up to over 20 knots and the entrance with wind over current was a little too exciting.  But I got to the anchorage (about 12 boats here) and got anchored in good time hoping my anchor was not going to snag coral heads.  A very tidy little atoll with manicured gardens and friendly people.
 A few days in Fakarava and I am ready to head to Tahiti.  A long cycle ride allowed me to explore much of the atoll.  Sadly many closed hotels, all looking like little villages, but deserted.  I bumped into a young lad whad just caught a coconut crab.  It is a lovely blue colour.  Off now…
 

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