Tuamotos
Wildfox
Anthony Swanston
Thu 13 Jun 2013 03:03
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A quick visit to Ua Pou, in
particular its church with magnificent wood carving and then it was off to the
Tuamotos about 500 miles away. The
weather ahead was not looking good and some of the boats further south changed
their destination (we are all in contact by radio twice a day). I slowed down and arrived at the atoll of
Kauehi with the light and current just right.
The land on these atolls is just a few feet high. If it were not for the 60 foot palm trees you
would not see them until you hit them.
Once through the narrow pass there are plenty of coral heads lurking
just below the surface. My insurance
premium is due in a couple of days and it fully reflects this risk,
particularly for a single hander in an area where lifeboats and search and
rescue are unknown.
There were about eight boats
at anchor in a spot that passed the long stem wine glass test- it was safe to
use such an item on the dinner table.
There are not many anchorages so calm.
The water is turquoise, beaches
are sandy, palms swaying and huge flocks
of shearwaters feed on small fish. A
long walk on the ocean side was beautiful; on the Sunday afternoon we had a
beach party with everybody bringing food to share. Six nationalities attended.
When it was time to go I was
away at 0445 to get the current right at a time when there was also light to
see. Sails up and away to Fakarava 45
miles away. The wind was light and it
was a lovely downwind sail across. Of
course at the pass in the wind suddenly got up to over 20 knots and the
entrance with wind over current was a little too exciting. But I got to the anchorage (about 12 boats
here) and got anchored in good time hoping my anchor was not going to snag
coral heads. A very tidy little atoll
with manicured gardens and friendly people.