Queenstown and Central Otago wine tasting

Wildfox
Anthony Swanston
Sun 2 Mar 2014 05:25
Queestown, founded by Andrew Rees, is at the foot of the Central Otago wine region. Travel inland 10 kilometers and suddenly the temperature increases 5 degrees and the rainfall is below 350 mm - technically desert. This is where Bungee Jumping was first commercialised by AJ Hackett and it is the main ski resort in New Zealand. Outside the courthouse a young council clerk planted two trees saying that people should have shade while awaiting justice. He was to benefit from the shade when, 35 years later, he was sentenced to 5 years imprisonment for embezzeling council funds.


But far more imoprtant this is where Andrew Brady, an Irish sheepfarmer, first planted grapes in 1981, his first vintage being 1987. Actually his first vintage was 1986 (the Dunlop year), but you will have to look that on up as it is too long a story to type.


So in less than 30 years this region has learned how to make the best Pinot Noirs and Pinoit Gris in the world along with dry Reisling, a refreshing change from the sweet German stuff. And many other interesting wines seldom, if ever seen in Europe - production is small and the locals drink it all. In two gruelling days I visit eight vinyards and taste 49 wines some of which are very unusual. My guide on day one is Richard who went to Portora Royal School in Eniskillen and one of the tasting masters is Brian from Magherafelt!


Most of the wines are organic and indeed many are biodynamic. We are six weeks from the main harvest and snow on the hills pours cold air down into the valley and threatens the crop. Huge fans driven by V8 diesel engines mix the cold air with the warm so the frost does not damage the grapes; if you don't have a fan then hire a helicopter at NZ$20 per minute...


I learn a lot about wine and the winemakers skill in an area that was left for dead after the gold rush of the 1860's.

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