My self steering replacement part arrived at the airport 72 hours ago but has yet to clear customs. Fiji is a very bureaucratic country. In the yacht club when you order a coffee a hand written and signed receipt is produced. The two men who have the catering franchise bring a whole new dimension to Gay. But the Royal Suva Yacht Club is great with lots of servants to dance attendance on temporary members like me. Across the road is the prison. Yesterday five prisoners were being taken out on a roadside work detail. They all had machettes. Their one guard was unarmed!

My old friend the Picton Castle, first seen in Antigua in April 2011, is hauled out here having a refit. I head off to the far side of town to the Ministry of Cultural affairs to get my cruising permit. It is next door to the President's Palace and I time my arrival to co-incide with the changing of the guard. On the way I pass the vast courthouse and a brand new posh hotel. The only blot on the landscape here was a dinghy and outboard theft two days ago from the boat beside me.

In the meantime I will sit on the yacht club lawn sipping cold beer until my part arrives.