Part of Panama this Indian nation passes it own laws.  Each village has its own "congresso".  Some are modern some traditional.  For traditional read no school, no church.  A wonderfully friendly people who live on the sea.  Mostly you are not allowed to photograph them.  On some islands you may not even take a sketch book.  The charts are inaccurate; chartplotter is just a distraction.  In parts the pilotage is plain exhausting.  It is all mark one eyeball navigation.  If I had had Sapir up the foremast life would have been easy.  But this is a place (especially at the eastern end where the Americans do not go) where you can have a palm island to yourself.  But every coconut belongs to somebody.  Touch one under pain of death!