Chagos to Mauritius - Day 5
 
                Harmonie
                  Don and Anne Myers
                  
Thu  3 May 2012 08:55
                  
                | 16:29.744S  64:59.172E May 3, 2012 We are human again. We endured 30 knots of wind and some darn big waves for about 
14 hours yesterday.  All we could do was grin and bear it, although there 
was much more grimacing than grinning going on.  For two people who hate a 
boat covered in salt water, the constant (and huge) showers of spray coming 
at us over the port side from bow to stern coating everything, caused us 
almost more angst than the challenging sailing conditions.  Sitting at the 
helm, we were mostly spared, but only just.  For the first time ever, we 
had to close the companionway to prevent sea water from going below and dousing 
all the precious navigation equipment sitting on and around the chart 
table.  In all the sailing we've done, we can think of only a few times 
when a wave has splashed into the cockpit.  Yesterday, we had a constant 
barrage.  Yuck. The waves generated by the wind, were interesting.  In 
fact, we found it best not to look when they loomed directly above us on the 
port side.  We sailed up and over them fine.  Only occasionally 
did a wave push us in such a way that the boat heeled rather more 
than we would have liked (slight understatement as the starboard rail 
was in the water), and rounded up into the wind, causing the sails to 
luff.  Usually, only a few seconds were needed for the boat (driven by the 
overworked autopilot) to take a deep breath, right itself, turn 
back off the wind, fill the sails and leap forward to sail up and over the 
next wave.  We never broached (the rudder never came out of the 
water), but might have come closer to a broach than we have before.  This 
is part of the reason we reefed the headsail and mizzen to the size of 
handkerchiefs - keeping our speed quite low (7.5-9 knots) in 
the high wind and making it easier to sail up and over the 
waves. Aside from the constant sea spray and big waves, the howling 
of the wind got to us after a while.  When off-watch, it was a 
relief to go below, shut the noise at least partially out, and attempt to 
sleep. So, there you go - another Harmonie sailing adventure.  
We might have more if the wind picks up again later today and tomorrow as 
predicted, but our angle should be better as we received permission from 
Bruce to turn more to the west and head straight for Mauritius this morning when 
the wind calmed.  We are now only a little over 500 miles away from our 
destination, and sailing very fast (9-10 knots) in more moderate wind (20-23 
knots) under a much less squally sky.  If we continue like this, we might 
make Mauritius before sundown on Saturday.  If not, we'll slow down 
starting late Saturday and time our arrival for daybreak on Sunday. Now, the human part. After four days of no coffee (a lifetime record), Don was able 
to brew a pot this morning, along with a cup of tea for me.  We ate 
breakfast together in the cockpit like two mostly normal human beings.  
Very satisfying.  At the moment, we can move around the boat without 
struggling to keep upright.  Also good.  The companionway is open 
(although nothing else is, there's too much spray still flying around for that), 
and the best part?  We have finally reached a more temperate climate.  
Sailing eleven degrees south has resulted in a cabin temperature of almost (but 
not quite) sub-80 degrees.  We haven't had such chilly temperatures since 
nearly two years ago in Australia.  One sweatshirt came out of 
hiding and was used for watch last night.  Geez, and we have four 
more degrees of latitude to go - might have to dig out the long pants and - gasp 
- socks. More tomorrow -  Anne |