Chagos to Mauritius - Day 5

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Thu 3 May 2012 08:55
16:29.744S  64:59.172E
 
May 3, 2012
 
We are human again.
We endured 30 knots of wind and some darn big waves for about 14 hours yesterday.  All we could do was grin and bear it, although there was much more grimacing than grinning going on.  For two people who hate a boat covered in salt water, the constant (and huge) showers of spray coming at us over the port side from bow to stern coating everything, caused us almost more angst than the challenging sailing conditions.  Sitting at the helm, we were mostly spared, but only just.  For the first time ever, we had to close the companionway to prevent sea water from going below and dousing all the precious navigation equipment sitting on and around the chart table.  In all the sailing we've done, we can think of only a few times when a wave has splashed into the cockpit.  Yesterday, we had a constant barrage.  Yuck.
 
The waves generated by the wind, were interesting.  In fact, we found it best not to look when they loomed directly above us on the port side.  We sailed up and over them fine.  Only occasionally did a wave push us in such a way that the boat heeled rather more than we would have liked (slight understatement as the starboard rail was in the water), and rounded up into the wind, causing the sails to luff.  Usually, only a few seconds were needed for the boat (driven by the overworked autopilot) to take a deep breath, right itself, turn back off the wind, fill the sails and leap forward to sail up and over the next wave.  We never broached (the rudder never came out of the water), but might have come closer to a broach than we have before.  This is part of the reason we reefed the headsail and mizzen to the size of handkerchiefs - keeping our speed quite low (7.5-9 knots) in the high wind and making it easier to sail up and over the waves.
 
Aside from the constant sea spray and big waves, the howling of the wind got to us after a while.  When off-watch, it was a relief to go below, shut the noise at least partially out, and attempt to sleep.
 
So, there you go - another Harmonie sailing adventure.  We might have more if the wind picks up again later today and tomorrow as predicted, but our angle should be better as we received permission from Bruce to turn more to the west and head straight for Mauritius this morning when the wind calmed.  We are now only a little over 500 miles away from our destination, and sailing very fast (9-10 knots) in more moderate wind (20-23 knots) under a much less squally sky.  If we continue like this, we might make Mauritius before sundown on Saturday.  If not, we'll slow down starting late Saturday and time our arrival for daybreak on Sunday.
 
Now, the human part.
After four days of no coffee (a lifetime record), Don was able to brew a pot this morning, along with a cup of tea for me.  We ate breakfast together in the cockpit like two mostly normal human beings.  Very satisfying.  At the moment, we can move around the boat without struggling to keep upright.  Also good.  The companionway is open (although nothing else is, there's too much spray still flying around for that), and the best part?  We have finally reached a more temperate climate.  Sailing eleven degrees south has resulted in a cabin temperature of almost (but not quite) sub-80 degrees.  We haven't had such chilly temperatures since nearly two years ago in Australia.  One sweatshirt came out of hiding and was used for watch last night.  Geez, and we have four more degrees of latitude to go - might have to dig out the long pants and - gasp - socks.
 
More tomorrow -
Anne