Crocodiles, Dingoes & Mosquitoes Oh My! - Garry's Anchorage, Great Sandy Strait, Queensland, Australia

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Fri 30 Apr 2010 11:06
25:37.855S  152:58.312E
 
On April 21st, we weighed anchor and turned north up the Great Sandy Strait.  We had a beautiful three hour sail on flat water, the tide carrying us gently past mangrove lined shores and masses of sand flats.  Garry's Anchorage is as snug as an anchorage can be, wedged in the very shallow waters between Fraser Island and Stewart Island.  You can see for yourself if you zoom in on our location on the Google Map.  We stayed for three nights while we waited for Storyteller to catch up with us. 
 
Fraser Island is the world's largest sand island.  It's literally made of sand.  And it's big.  All good aside from the fact that it is infested with an equally large population of sand flies and mosquitoes. The recent buckets of rain probably didn't do much to discourage the nasty little buggers either.  We ventured onto the island for a walk, and while we were diligently reading the warning signs about crocodiles and dingoes, the mosquitoes moved in.  For those of you that have had the pleasure of hearing Don sing the 'Skeeter Song', we were living the second verse, '...you can hear'em all a-buzz'in..."  A huge swarm - buzzing and dive-bombing us.  Or really, to be honest, buzzing and dive-bombing Don.  Maybe they've heard Don sing the Skeeter Song and haven't been pleased?  I'm not sure, but all insects seem to love Don and leave him covered with giant itchy welts which he then whinges about for hours afterward.  On this particular day, we went on with our walk after smothering ourselves with bug spray.
 
We didn't see any crocodiles.  We weren't in a big hurry to go swimming either though.  Each time we beached the dinghy, we did so gingerly, and got it and ourselves out of the murky water and onto the beach as quickly as possible.  Crocodiles are fast in the water, but sluggish on land, or so we've read.  It's probably extremely rare that one would be seen as far south as Fraser Island, but who are we to question the warning signs?  (see picture 1)  Crocodiles will be become more of an issue as we get further north.  They love to hang out in the places where sailboats love to anchor - sheltered waters at the mouth of a river, for example.  We won't see them on the various islands we plan to visit as we island hop north inside the Great Barrier Reef, but might see them when we run out of islands and have to anchor off the mainland instead.  We're thinking there won't be a lot of swimming happening on the coast of what's called 'Far North Queensland' (FNQ for short - say that fast and you'll see why the rest of Australia gets a kick out of calling remote Far North Queensland FNQ).  We've read that the Australian crocodile is the largest reptile in the world, sometimes growing as long as 25 feet, although 10-15 foot crocs are much more common.  We are not necessarily looking forward to seeing any of them. 
 
Fraser Island is also known for its Dingoes.  Dingoes are a little like wild dogs.  The difference is that dingoes were never domesticated.  They are indigenous to Australia, and like wolves or coyotes, live in the wild and probably don't want to be bothered by us.  Fraser Island is home to a few packs of dingoes, and there have been a couple of instances where a dingo has attacked a human.  Usually the human was doing something stupid, like feeding the dingo, but there you go - they are dangerous.  We didn't see any dingoes, although we did hear them howling and were glad we were on the boat and they were on the island.
 
Australia is just chock full of creepy creatures.  There are giant pythons and a mess of poisonous snakes both in the water and on land with ominous names like the death adder.  All this talk of snakes makes us yearn for New Zealand where snakes are nonexistent.  No wonder the Kiwis call their country 'Godszone' (God's own).  Poisonous jellyfish also like to hang around in Australian waters - not so much in the winter (May - November) thankfully for us.  One sting from one of these and death could result.  And we thought the skeeters and leeches were bad...
 
Anne 

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