Reality - Fannie Bay, Darwin, Northern Territory, Australia

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Thu 22 Jul 2010 23:46
12:25.572S  130:49.109E
 
Per the plan, we sailed out of Popham Bay at 3am on June 28th with a full moon overhead and a gentle 15 knot breeze from the southeast behind us.
 
Then we rounded Cape Don and turned south.
 
Maybe it's something in the name?  Because all hell broke loose as soon as we rounded Cape Don with its deceptively friendly lighthouse and giant rotating light beam.  Our gentle 15 knot breeze from the southeast turned into nearly 30 knots as we started to rocket down the Dundas Strait.  "Where did all this wind come from?" we shouted to each other as we brought sail in and secured some unidentified flying objects.  "Oh!  Look at our speed!"  And there it was - a new speed record - 12.5 knots over the ground, according to the GPS.  It's possible our speed went higher, but in the hullabaloo, neither one of us noticed.  What we did notice was we had at least 3.5 knots of current with us, and that plus our sailing speed through the water of a good 9 knots was causing us to fly into the increasingly confused seas.  Because we had turned south into the wind and were sailing at a massive 12.5 knots, the gentle 15 knot breeze behind us turned into a 27 knot roar in front of us.  On top of that, the wind blowing against the 3.5 knot current whipped up lumpy seas that looked like moguls on a dark Aspen mountain at night - black and sinister with shadows in the gullies making it impossible to see how deep they really were.  This was the ride of all rides.  We had it all going on.  Bow slamming, wind gusts, bow spearing mogul waves and scooping giant gulps of seawater up on the deck, which bubbled in great sheets all the way to the dodger where streams found their way into the cockpit.  We were in a washing machine.  The big time commercial size used to wash rugs.  The heavy-duty rug wash cycle.
 
The good news:  we went so fast it took us only four hours to clear the Dundas Strait and reach the center of Van Dieman Gulf.
 
The bad news:  we went so fast we beat the plan and ended up slogging against a 2.5 knot current for four hours in the Van Dieman Gulf.
 
The rest:
The tide did turn before we reached the Clarence Strait and the Vernon Islands, so we rode the ebb tide per the plan.
The wind died for the last four or five hours, causing us to motorsail the rest of the way to Fannie Bay just west of Darwin, where we set the anchor down (being careful not to put it in a spot that would dry out at low tide) and breathed.
130 miles in 14 hours - a record average speed of 9.3 knots.     
 
Later we noticed several salt crystal piles in the cabin underneath two of the hatches - remnants of salt water leaks.  We've never had salt water come through any hatches before so we can only guess it happened during the 4-hour wash cycle.  Here's hoping we're done with wash cycles for now.
 
Anne