Foreland Bay, Epi Island, Vanauatu

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Sun 31 Aug 2008 02:29
16:40.819S  168:07.451E
 
After we spent a peaceful night all alone in Crab Bay on Malakula Island, we set off the next morning (8/13) on the second leg of our 250 mile upwind slog to Port Vila and civilization.  It was about this time that a serious craving for really good ice cream - the kind with at least fifteen grams of fat per serving - set in.  The last really good ice cream we had was when we stopped at the agricultural college on our hike up to the Belvedere lookout on Moorea in the Society Islands with Bill and Kathie back in early May.  There, the high fat content ice cream was flavored on site with fruits and spices grown on the college grounds - coconut ice cream, ginger ice cream, papaya ice cream, sour sop ice cream, mango ice cream, vanilla ice cream.  Need I go on?  This sudden ice cream craving of ours was most likely brought on by the large intake of fruits and vegetables we were experiencing as we ate our way through the mountain of bananas, grapefruits, passion fruit, papaya, onions, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes and unidentifiable leafy green stuff that we were given during our various stops on Espiritu Santo, Gaua and Vanua Lava Islands.  On top of the fact that we had eaten no ice cream in months, our chocolate stash was completely decimated.  With the exception of chocolate chips, that is - which we were forced to eat on their own because there was no butter with which to make chocolate chip cookies.  Sometimes we truly do lead a hellish existence.
 
All that day as we motored forty miles into the wind on our way from Malakula Island to Epi Island, we fantasized about all the good stuff we were going to eat and drink once we got back to Port Vila where there is a real grocery store and lots of restaurants.  Pizza, cheeseburgers, french fries, ice cream, chocolate, beer.  Not necessarily in that order.  Actually, at that point, anything that was not a fruit or vegetable and was not prepared on our boat was suddenly extremely appealing.  This is very similar to the feelings we had about food when we finally arrived in the Marquesas after seventeen long and boring food days enroute from the Galapagos.  It's amazing after several weeks of deprivation how just one meal in a restaurant can become a major focus in one's life.  Amazing, and maybe just a little bit ridiculous. 
 
Aside from food fantasizing, the semi-motor slog (semi because unlike the famous Ecuador to Galapagos motorslog, we were not battling a two knot current against us) to Epi Island was uneventful.  After nine and a half hours of listening to the motor drone with a few minor bow slams thrown in for good measure, we arrived in Foreland Bay on Epi Island.  The bay was gray since a rain shower had just passed through and there was nothing on shore - no village and therefore no welcoming canoe for the second day in a row.  We passed another quiet evening and night in the bay by ourselves eating fish out of the freezer (yes, we still have tuna in there, but we've eaten all of the triple back-flip, double twisting blood spattering Pacific mahi-mahi) and Vanua Lava sweet potatoes with tomatoes, unidentifiable leafy green stuff - and no ice cream.
Anne