Nearing the end of the Ecuador-Galapagos Motorslog

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Fri 29 Feb 2008 17:15
00:59.568S  89:27.315W
 
Yes motorslog.  That's a new word we've come up with that we feel conveys the essence of this particular trip perfectly.  We were able to sail for about half an hour yesterday, but after that had to revert back to motorslogging against the current due to lack of wind.  We continue to nurse our leaking transmission along and have devised an effective maintenance schedule - every six hours we shut the engine down and drift while Don pours the oil from the cranberry juice collection bin back into the transmission.  Then, just when Oscar was thinking that this was positively the longest five days of his life, land was sighted at eight o'clock this morning. 
 
The Galapagos island of San Cristobal is about ten miles away.  We should reach the designated anchorage on San Cristobal sometime this afternoon.  We had planned to stay there two nights, which would allow us some time to see the island.  Instead, our late arrival will cause us to stay only one night on San Cristobal and then we have to move on to the island of Santa Cruz on Saturday because we have a day tour booked for Sunday that leaves from Santa Cruz.  Since we are now in the Central Time Zone and have gained an hour, we're hoping there will be time after the arrival paperwork is completed to see a bit of San Cristobal.  There is a bay not too far from where we will be anchored that is famous for its colony of sea lions.  In fact, boaters are encouraged not to take their dinghy to this bay because the sea lions find dinghies to be a nice place for napping and once in, are impossible to evict.  Our dinghy has been through a lot lately and we'd hate to expose it to yet another trauma.
 
One thing we will miss when we finally arrive in the Galapagos are the sea birds that accompanied us through each night of our motorslog.  As many as ten of these birds joined us hundreds of miles out to sea and circled around the boat from dusk to dawn, never stopping to rest.  When dawn arrived, they slowly disappeared only to arrive back again just after dark.  We'd like to think they we hanging around because they enjoyed our company, but we think the real reason had something to do with fish they like to eat hanging around in our wake.  The birds were large and had white wings which picked up the color of our navigation lights (red on the right, green on the left) when they flew near, giving the impression of ghost birds trying to look festive as they coasted through the air in and around the boat (they may not have realized that Christmas came and went several months ago).
 
Oscar will be leaving us in either San Cristobal or Santa Cruz - depending on which friend agrees to take him in for his stay in the Galapagos (he has several acquaintances and friends that live on the Galapagos Islands).  He plans to stay for a week or so and then fly back home to Salinas.  He faired very well on his first sailing voyage.  It's too bad that he had to experience the longest motorslog known to man instead of the exhilarating feeling associated with a fast sail across the waves with only the wind and water to listen to.
 
More in a day or two after we've had a chance to experience a few Galapagos Island adventures.
Anne