Trellis Bay, Tortola, BVI

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Wed 12 Dec 2007 18:51
18:26.895N  64:31.907W
 
On Tuesday (12/11), we left Great Harbour on Peter Island and had a very brisk sail in lots of wind to Trellis Bay on the eastern end of Tortola.  We had visions of finding a nice space to anchor in this very protected bay, but instead found about a million moorings crammed in every corner.  We gave in to the trend of the crowd and picked up a mooring.
 
Trellis Bay is home to the famous restaurant, 'The Last Resort' (not to be confused with the restaurant chain, Dick's Last Resort).  This restaurant is situated on a tiny island called Bellamy Cay in the center of Trellis Bay.  It is famous for its singing dogs, its donkey named Bottom, and its unique atmosphere that can only be described as shabby chic and according to Don, kind of strange.  The first picture below was taken from Bellamy Cay looking out at Trellis Bay and some of the millions of moored boats (the dilapidated boat in the foreground is very typical of those seen laying around everywhere).  Our boat is just to the left of center in the picture.  The second picture is the outside of The Last Resort as you approach the front entrance from the dinghy dock.
 
Since it had been a full twelve days since we had last gone out to dinner and something different from my cooking, even if it was just a hot dog or something, was appealing, we made dinner reservations at The Last Resort and headed over early for the two-for-one happy hour (now that we are retired, these types of specials hold much interest for us - if The Last Resort had an early bird special for dinner, it's very possible that we would have gone for it).  Happy Hour started at 5 and we got there at 5:30.  There were no other patrons in the restaurant but us.  So much for our plan of being somewhat social for once.  We sat at the bar with our drinks and waited for other boaters to arrive, hopeful that we'd have someone to strike up a conversation with.  Nobody came - except for a group of five guys that immediately went into a different corner of the restaurant.  Promptly at 6pm, all the waitresses and bartenders sat down at one of the picnic tables in the front of the restaurant and ate dinner.  Meanwhile, we sat at the bar, by ourselves, and wondered how it might be possible to order another drink.  It wasn't.  Not even after the waitress/bartender feast was over at 6:30.  Hmmmm, as Don said, strange.  We decided the best course of action was to sit down to dinner early instead of continuing to sit at the bar by ourselves, drinkless and feeling awkward.  This apparently wasn't a problem and we sat down to a surprisingly really good dinner.  As we ate, the restaurant filled with other boaters and the various restaurant animals started to prowl around for table scraps.  We counted five dogs and three cats.  We didn't see the donkey.  We did make friends with one of the cats though, and it stuck by us under the table for most of the night (picture 3).  I tried to feed it some of my mahi mahi, but it stuck its nose up and one of the other cats pounced on it (apparently the mahi mahi was not prepared to 'our' cat's liking).  We didn't stay for the band, which we can only assume included the singing dogs.  Unfortunately we didn't happen to catch any of the five dogs we saw singing, and the same with the cats (although there were no singing cats in the restaurant's advertisement).  I did use the bathroom there though, and had to laugh at the directions I received from our waitress when I asked where it was.  'You go down the porch steps, turn right, go around the hammock onto the stepping stones and pass by the rope swing, after that, it's on your right.  And it was exactly where she said it was, hammock, rope swing and all.  In the end, although we didn't meet our full socialization objective for the night, we did have a good time and at least enjoyed the company of the cat (picture 4 - dining at The Last Resort).
 
The weather is still a bit iffy - very windy and lots of rain squalls passing through.  So we will stay in Trellis Bay for one more night and then probably make our way across the Sir Francis Drake channel one more time to Virgin Gorda, which is the easternmost British Virgin Island.  From there we plan to make the 80 mile overnight trip to St. Martin.  It looks like the weather will be ok for us to do this on Sunday or Monday. 
Anne 

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