The Maloneys Arrive - Koh Hong, Phang Nga Bay, Thailand

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Wed 9 Mar 2011 08:20
08:13.165N  98:30.064E
 
The Maloneys arrived at the Phuket Airport per the plan on February 13th.  There were no steamer trunks equipped with wheels.  Strike that - there were two suitcases equipped with wheels, but they were more like mini steamer trunks than the steamer trunk behemoths the Browns brought aboard.  Perhaps the lunch the Maloneys shared with the Browns before they left home had something to do with the luggage shrinkage.  (The Browns claimed in their Christmas card to us that one of the top 10 things they learned while on vacation onboard Harmonie was that "less is more".  They also claimed they learned that "Don Myers does not bite", and "underwear is overrated" - all extremely important life lessons we thought.)  However, the Maloney's light luggage probably had more to do with the fact that they had already experienced life on board Harmonie for two weeks in Tahiti and the Society Islands back in 2008.  Plus, their visit with us in Thailand was only a small part of their overall Southeast Asian travels.  They came to us from Cambodia after spending ten days in Vietnam before that.  After leaving us, they moved on to northern Thailand for a total trip time of six weeks.  Six weeks and all they had were two mini steamer trunks equipped with wheels and three smallish backpacks.  Very impressive!  Especially since they had to bring clothes covering the gamut of weather conditions from sweaty Thailand with us to freezing Sapa in the far north of Vietnam.  Very impressive indeed.
 
Bill has done an excellent job detailing their trip across Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a blog at the following address:
You'll have to excuse the redundancy between the Maloney's blog and ours as I finally update ours with all the marvelous pictures Bill provided us from their time aboard.  All the pictures in this and the next eight entries were taken by Bill - a joy since his pictures surpass mine in every way possible.
 
Without further ado, here is a sample of some of Bill's pictures taken on Valentine's Day after we left Yacht Haven Marina and motored 18 miles to our first destination in the lovely Phang Nga Bay.
 
 
Kathie enjoying what breeze there was (mostly we were making our own breeze by motoring at our standard 6 knots) as we entered the northern part of Phang Nga Bay.  Phang Nga Bay lies between the big island of Phuket and the west coast of mainland Thailand.  According to The Rough Guide to Thailand's Beaches & Islands, "The bay is thought to have been formed about twelve thousand years ago when a dramatic rise in the sea level flooded the summits of the mountain ranges which over millions of years had been eroded by an acidic mixture of atmospheric carbon dioxide and rainwater."  What is left is an amazing seascape of giant limestone karst formations - pillars of limestone reaching as high as 900 feet - in a broad, shallow bay.
 
 
The haze is constant here due to the heaps of moisture hanging in the air, which causes us to sweat puddles while admiring the ghostly view.
 
 
Beautifully calm water and evidence of zero breeze.  Remember that sailing we were bragging about doing just two weeks prior to the Maloney's arrival?  No sailing going on here, but the scenery pretty much makes up for it.
 
 
More evidence of flat seas.  Cheers to the photographer though.  Nice picture.
 
 
Koh Hong.  As you might recall, in Thai, Koh means island and hong means room, so this is Room Island.  Named as such because the hong here is one of the best - right up there with the Emerald Cave on Koh Muk.  It's so popular that this spot is inundated with zillions of tourists arriving daily on every form of tourist boat ranging from the traditional small Thai longtails (more on longtails in a future entry), to the 'luxury' double or triple decker affairs equipped with kayaks.  The tour boats descend every day between the hours of 9:30 am and 4:30 pm.  This timing works out well for us boaters because we get the place to ourselves in the cooler temps of early morning and late afternoon.  In between, when it's too hot to move, we amuse ourselves with tourist-watching.  It's a lot like people-watching only more fun because tourists often act slightly more odd than normal people.
 
 
Several double-decker tourist boats disgorging their loads of kayaking Europeans and Australians to paddle through Koh Hong's hong.  Sometimes the kayaks come equipped with Thais to do all the paddling for the tourists.  Doesn't seem right, does it?
 
 
The four of us paddled the dinghy through this cave leading into the hong during the tourist-deserted hours of late afternoon.  Hongs are formed when the roof of what used to be a large cave collapses, leaving the four-sided limestone 'room' open to the sky with only a small entrance through a cave or narrow opening in one of the limestone walls.
 
 
A close-up of limestone stalactites hanging down from the cliffs of Koh Hong.
 
 
Harmonie sitting peacefully at anchor off the coast of Koh Hong, basking in the sunset with two other boats.  All as seen from Storyteller's upper deck while the four of us participated in a Valentine's Day cocktail hour with Sue and John and their two guests from Singapore, Ling and daughter Eugenia.  The next day, Storyteller motored back to Yacht Haven to drop off their guests while Bill, Kathie, Don and I continued our Phang Nga Bay tour.
Anne