Bora Bora, Society Islands

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Sun 18 May 2008 19:50
16:29.323S  151:45.659W
 
On Thursday (5/15), we had a marvelous sail from the sister islands of Raitea and Tahaa to Bora Bora (picture 1).  We did stop in the main town on Raitea to fill up with fuel and stock up on some groceries on our way out.  We have to say that this fuel filling experience was much more relaxing than the last (Marquesas) - no surge, no swell, no threat of bashing the boat into a massive concrete wharf.
 
We arrived in Bora Bora and found a nice spot to anchor in shallow water tucked behind a motu.  Picture 2 was taken as we made our way through the Bora Bora lagoon.  We spent one last night with the Maloneys anchored out in that peaceful place before moving to an anchorage outside the Bora Bora Yacht Club with the rest of the rally fleet (picture 3) on Friday.
 
Once we arrived back in civilization again (if the Bora Bora Yacht Club can be considered civilization...), Bill and Kathie hitched a ride into the one town that exists on Bora Bora and rented a car for a quick trip around the island while Don and I worked on boat stuff.  Pictures 4 and 5 were taken by Bill as he and Kathie toured the island.  Picture 4 is a close up of some of those bargain basement $600/night thatched roof, over the water bungalows.  Picture 5 is a lovely view of Mt. Otemanu taken somewhere along the beach.  All in all, Bill and Kathie felt Bora Bora was a bit of a disappointment.  It is quite developed with many hotels and they felt the scenery was not as beautiful as some of the other islands we visited (namely Moorea and Huahine).
 
Friday night was an official rally event - a barbeque put on by the yacht club.  Everyone donned their best island attire (even Don went for a flowered shirt) and a good time was had.  Picture 6 is the crew of Graptolite.  Martyn, Graptolite's captain, really embraced the South Pacific, and went for the half-naked look.  This is really quite humorous - especially given that Martyn is a retired geologist, who worked for one of the big oil companies (BP?).  Half-naked and geologist don't even seem to fit in the same sentence let alone on the same person, but Martyn definitely should be credited with the most creative costume of the night.
 
Picture 7 is a farewell shot of Bill and Kathie in their island finery at the barbeque.
 
Thanks again to Bill for taking all the photos over the past two weeks.  Unfortunately, picture quality will decrease back to 'normal' going forward.  In fact, the quality of a lot of things onboard will decrease back to 'normal' now that Kathie and Bill are gone - the dinners, the lunches, the quality of the help Don gets when he needs it for various boat jobs, etc.  Even the number and variety of dilemmas we face everyday will decrease.  While onboard, Kathie and Bill were faced with many dilemmas daily that they struggled with.  They included things like:
Kathie:  I'm not sure if I should put on sunscreen now or later
Kathie:  I don't know whether the sunset looks better in this direction or that direction
Kathie:  Should we snorkel now?  Or maybe later?
Bill:  I'm not sure whether I feel like eating a piece of dark chocolate or a ginger cookie for dessert today
Bill:  Should I take a photo from this angle or that angle?
Bill:  Should I buy this $65 3/4 liter bottle of gin and call it liquid gold?  (Actually, this wasn't really a dilemma, Bill decided pretty quickly that the $65 was well worth it - besides, he was on vacation.)
 
In general the boat feels quite empty without our guests and we are hoping they will decide to join us again next year in some other far flung port.
 
It is now Sunday (5/18) and the start for the next rally sailing leg from Bora Bora to Suwarrow in the Cook Islands was supposed to be today.  However, the weather forecast is showing a nasty low pressure system making its way along our path to the Cook Islands with winds up to 35 knots coming directly from the direction we would need to go.  So, the rally event manager, Mandy, has decided to delay the start until Tuesday (5/20) at noon.  This is just fine with us as it will give us a little more time to get some things done on the boat before the four day trip to Suwarrow.  In fact, after reading about Suwarrow and realizing that it is a small coral atoll (like the Tuamotu islands we visited) with absolutely nothing on it - with the exception of one caretaker that looks after the island for part of the year - we decided we ought to stock up a little more before we leave here.  Suwarrow is part of the Cook Islands, which are a protectorate of New Zealand, and the entire atoll and enclosed lagoon have been declared a nature preserve.  Once there, we'll find one designated anchoring area and pretty much nothing else except pure nature.  We've been told there aren't even any lights on the island at night.  This ought to be an incredible experience and we are looking forward to the five or six days we will be spending in Suwarrow.
 
More on Wednesday when we will once again be sailing the high seas.
Anne

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