Tiva, Tahaa, Society Islands

Harmonie
Don and Anne Myers
Sun 18 May 2008 18:54
16:38.505S  151:33.129W
 
On Wednesday (5/14), we left our anchorage by the motu north of the island of Tahaa and motored a short distance through the lagoon to the west of Tahaa where we found a gorgeous place to anchor just outside the marked deepwater channel in uncharted shallower water.  There were a few coral heads here and there, but deep enough not to cause trouble.  The water was so clear that the sunlight reflecting off the white sand bottom made the whole area look just like a swimming pool.  A swimming pool with a few coral heads and a bunch of tropical fish, that is.
 
Along the way, we had a marvelous view of Bora Bora in the distance to the west. Picture 1 shows exactly that with hotel bungalows set out over the water in the foreground.  This thatched roof, over the water bungalow style is extremely popular here and most of the big name and exclusive hotels have them.  Bill and Kathie did some research on hotels before coming and discovered that they too could stay in a very nice thatched roof, over the water bungalow for the bargain price of $600-$1200 per night.  Surprisingly, they decided to spend their entire two weeks on the boat with us (with the exception of one night in a reasonably priced Tahiti hotel on their way back home from Bora Bora).
 
As usual, Lady Kay had done some research for us, and again acting as our tour guide, arranged for dinner reservations for the eight of us at a local restaurant called Chez Louise in the town of Tiva on Tahaa Island.  As we were getting ready for dinner, Kathie sent out the sunset alert (process used by anyone on board who happens to notice that the sunset is going to be particularly nice - the process typically involves yelling loud enough to get everyone's attention, 'Sunset alert!').  The sunsets happen so fast in the tropics that if a sunset alert doesn't go out within a reasonable timeframe, all crewmembers miss the event and a potential picture taking opportunity is forever lost.  Fortunately, on this evening Bill was paying attention and responded to Kathie's sunset alert.  Picture 2 was the result (that's Kathie to the left and Bora Bora to the right).
 
Lady Kay arrived just before sunset, set down their anchor nearby and we all dinghied across the channel to the restaurant, which was located right on the lagoon waterfront in the village of Tiva on Tahaa Island.  The restaurant was beautifully done up like most we've seen in this area - open air, thatched roof, palm fronds hanging here and there, brightly colored plastic table cloths and potted plants and flowers everywhere.  The only thing that seemed odd was that only one table was set up - that being the one for us - and no other customers were there.  We apparently had the place and Chef Louise to ourselves.
 
After the rum punches were served, Chef Louise herself made an appearance to welcome us.  Michael on Lady Kay had learned earlier that Louise encouraged customers to bring their own wine.  We did exactly that and when Virginia from Lady Kay asked Louise why she encouraged this practice Louise said, 'It's much cheaper for customers if they bring their own wine.  I would make more money if I did not let them do this and sold them the wine myself.....but instead of making more money, I make more friends.'  This statement was followed by a big smile from Louise.  We laughed.  Louise is a very jolly person and giggled quite a bit when Virginia (our French expert) told her that I have a sister named Louise.  She wanted to know if my sister worked hard like she does.  Of course I said yes.  She found this to be a very satisfactory answer and then posed for a couple of pictures before going off to the kitchen to prepare our dinner (picture 4).
 
Shortly thereafter dinner arrived.  It came family style in three pieces of bamboo sliced lengthwise so that there were six bamboo compartments - one each for shrimp, warm water lobsters, poisson cru (raw fish marinated in lime and coconut milk served with vegetables), tuna, rice and bread (picture 5).  Each end of the table got their own set of bamboo dishes, enough to feed four.  In order to keep the round bottom bamboo dishes steady on the table, our waitress placed beer bottle caps along the sides of each dish.  As the French would say, 'Walaa!' dinner was served.  Before leaving us to enjoy our dinner, the waitress explained patiently that any waste (shrimp and lobster shells) and any leftovers should be taken to the side of the porch and scraped into the water where the hungry fish were waiting.  'The fish would like to eat too, so please give your scraps to them.'  Ok, we've gotten doggy bags before and fed table scraps to cats, but table scrap wild fish feeding was a first for all of us.  The food was excellent and we even enjoyed the raw stuff (this south pacific air must be getting to us).  When we were done, we did as instructed and scraped our shells and leftovers into the water for the fish.  Picture 6 is Kathie and I emptying the last of the bamboo dishes into the water.  If you look close, you will see the swarm of fish going after the food.  We decided it was a bit like watching those documentary films showing piranhas feeding in the Amazon.  The ripples you see in the water weren't caused by the food scraps going in, but by the fish swarming and flapping around wildly.
 
And so ended yet another day in paradise.
Anne
 

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