Marmaris part 1
36 49.1 N 28 18.6 E
Marmaris Yacht Marina Wednesday 19th - 27th October
We left Bozburun bright and early and were relieved to get our anchor up and clear as the harbour is so small that anchors are often entangled. After exiting the harbour we hoisted the main with two reefs and set off motor sailing. Once out of the shelter of the island that protects the bay we had a brisk NW wind and a short sea with the engine on tick over we made the corner with out having to tack. Having made reasonable progress we soon rounded the headland of Kizil Burnu and bore away to our new course almost south. This part of the journey was very fast with speeds of 7 knots at times. Then we had a jibe and a close reach up the coast heading NE towards Marmaris. With high hills on the port side and an increasing wind from the NW we encountered some very strong gusts and eventually having broached several times we reefed again – (only the second time in 2 years we have put a third reef in the main). Once through the gap between the small island of Kizil Ada and the mainland, the wind gradually died off and soon we were motoring again. We met a number of boats as they headed south all under full rig but interestingly heard the Sunsail lead boat calling up their fleet to reef as they had hit the strong winds as they sailed west! Once round the point off Kadriga Burnu we were again into a force 5 – 6 from the NW with little protection so we just motor sailed keeping the main filled and tacked our way into the large bay of Marmaris. Here the water was calm and with the sun still shining we made our way up to the marina our final destination for this year. We were given a berth on Juliet pontoon and soon had our electric and water connected.
On Thursday Jacky made the contract in the office and the final fee of 1800 Euros was duly paid and the launch date of 21st of April 2012 was agreed, which gives us a fairly tight schedule for getting the boat ready next spring after arriving back in Turkey on the 4th of that month. We have already met up here with several boat owners from our travels this year and last and ‘Happy Hour’ in the bar here provides additional opportunities to meet new folk which is great. We had our first delicious meal in the restaurant on Wednesday night and the filet steak was as good as ever! On Thursday afternoon the riggers from M2 arrived to check out the forestay and we agreed that they should carry out a full rig inspection the following morning. They duly arrived and found various problems including a pitted lower boom vang a frayed inner port shroud and a damaged forestay. After some discussion we agreed they should do the work which they started on Monday afternoon and finished on Tuesday! The damage to the top of the forestay was not as, bad but similar to that found two years ago – the wire having opened up. Hopefully the new jib halyard diverting ring they have fitted to the mast will prevent this happening again. In addition to this work we had Elvestrom the sail-makers collect both sails, the bimini and spray hood which have gone for winter –cleaning and any minor repairs. This company did a similar job for us last year – coming all the way to Alanya to collect the items! Having sorted out all of the above we arranged to go to Fethiye to visit our good friends Rosemary and Bob Durham (EMYR Halycon Days) as they now have an apartment there.
On Friday Rob got a few more jobs done while Jacky went to the bar to watch the Wales v. Australia Rugby match. We had a quick lunch in the staff canteen at the marina which was tremendous value – 7 Lira for a full lunch including water, bread and a pudding! Then we set off on the dolmus to the main otogar to catch a local bus for Fethiye – the journey was picturesque driving through heavily wooded hilly countryside and occasional fertile valleys where we saw fields of citrus fruit trees and covered glass/plastic market garden crops. With two stops at the major towns and a couple of other short stops one at a garage for the bus to be washed and some new tyres picked up it took just over 3 hours to get to the Otogar in Fethiye where Rosemary and Bob were waiting for us. It was hard to believe we hadn’t seen them for 15 months they hadn’t changed a bit – just as friendly with a great ‘Ossie’ welcome! We had a wander to the fish and chip restaurant which is not far from the main bus station – it actually has loads of other food and is owned by Ron who also has the wine and fire bar on the sea front. Later our Belgium friends Hugo and Marleen (EMYR Yoko) joined us and we had a chance to have a good long chat about what we had all been doing since last summer. Then it was a taxi ride to Olive Apartments which are set high above the town with stunning views looking west. It was great to have a real bed to sleep in and we retired fairly soon after arriving – looking forward to seeing the place in the daylight the next morning.
Rosemary and Bob haven’t been long in the apartment but you wouldn’t think so to see how beautifully they have chosen and set out the furnishings and fittings. The theme is white with touches of fawn and grey; the views over the bay are sensational and having a cup of tea while sitting in the really comfy sofa looking out on the shimmering water made an excellent start to the day. Later we took a walk down the very steep hill to catch a bus to the yard where the boat is laid up for the winter. We were able to have a look round the small boat yard where they are in the process of building a boat and saw how they bend and layer the ribs for making the frame of these traditional boats. Next it was a dolmus ride back into town and a wander through the delightful old-world shopping area. We stopped for lunch at a great little place in a back street and then moved further on to the ‘fish-market’ area before eventually getting a taxi ride back to the apartment.
Rosemary spent some time getting nibbles and snacks prepared for a drinks party they had organized for 1730 to which several of the neighbors were invited, and Bob made some delicious humus. We had a lovely evening meeting and chatting with the 3 couples from the flats around us and were able to witness a splendid sunset from the flat before it was dark again and time to get supper ready. After supper we were introduced to a new game called Rummycub which is a bit like scrabble but number based. We really enjoyed it and will try to buy a set before we go home.
On Sunday morning Bob and Jacky went upstairs to Kevin and Caroline’s flat to watch the Rugby World Cup final – an exciting game with France doing much better than expected. Then we just had time for a quick brunch before our taxi arrived to take us back to the otogar and the bus back to Marmaris. All in all a fabulous weekend!
Piper had arrived in Marmaris over the weekend while we were away so we spent ‘happy hour’ with them in the bar and then on Monday Jacky went with June to look round Netsel marina before going into the town for a mooch round. Our mutual friends Ju and Liz were due to arrive on Monday evening and as it was Liz’s birthday we all went for a meal at the restaurant and a jolly time was had by all. Tuesday saw Jacky heading into town for a dental appointment to get her temporary filling replaced more permanently. The dentist used was Ece Gokce whose surgery is on the third floor of an apartment block, looking out towards the statue of Ataturk right on the water front in town. It was rather bizarre sitting having one’s teeth drilled while staring out over such a spectacular vista! Anyway the job was done and then Jacky headed off to get some Euros from the cash machine to pay for the rigging work. Then she went for a haircut so a new look (a short bob) is now being sported! On returning to the marina all the rigging work was completed – we just have to pay for it now!