Vava'u, Tonga
Fleck
Sat 12 Jul 2008 22:09
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Date Sunday, 13th July 2008
Location 18:41.75S 174:02.00W
If my coordinates went in correctly you should find
us, on this cold and windy morning, sheltering in the bay at Fangakima on the
Island of Kapa, in the Vava'u group of Tongan Islands. No change then in the
weather for a week now, but as we look at the seas boiling around the outer
reefs we do wonder how and why we put up with such discomforts to get here.
In fact our 8 day passage from the Cook Islands
went well and the dreaded South Pacific Convergence Zone (unpredictable
band of weather) didn't give us too much to panic about. We had a day
of calms then the Trade winds filled in with dense clouds
and fresh winds that blew 20-25knts (Force 6) for the last two
days of the passage and hasn't relented yet! Our main concern was
that these strong trade winds (aka 'Super-Trades') were not blowing from the
usuall direction and threatened to blow us away from Tonga
alltogether. So we had to sail carefully and uncomfortably for a
while to make windward progress through the big seas. As ever we didn't plan our
arrival time that well, but anticipated this, slowed down early, and enjoyed a
dawn landfall in Tonga. We approached from the northeast, and as we rounded the
northwest tip of the Vava'u Island, we found ourselves in the lee of the cliffs,
and at last our dear ship regained her sense of decorum, and allowed us to move
around without two simultaneous handholds (try cooking with your
teeth!!).
Better still was Vicky's shout from the cockpit:
"Whale, whale!!". A humpback had surfaced very close to the boat. These beasts
are a major tourist attraction here, but we are very early in the season, and we
discovered that the local tour boats hadn't managed to find them with any
reliability yet, and they charge a huge amount for the trips. Even more amazing
was that down below we could hear him/she/them talking: the sound being
transmitted and maybe amplified by our hull. Just like the real thing on the
telly!!! Humpbacks come thousands of miles to Tonga each year for, you've
guessed it, humping!
In the main port, Neiafu, we had to tie to a
commercial wharf to check in: very tight, but we manged well, with a bit of
shore help, and with Vicky doing sterling work on the foredeck and with the
fenders. Laurie found us on the dock, and
yours truly did the usual rounds of Customs, Immigration, Quarantine, and
'Health'. There is a tourist 'drag' in Neiafu, along the waterfront: the yachtie
commercial activity seems to be driven by ex-pat sailing Kiwis: so
loads of bars and cafes, competitive prices and all fun, each with their
quota of regulars from the liveaboard sailing community in the Harbour:
about half the yachts have a givaway layer of barnacles on their
waterlines!!
To sober up a bit we all went on a half day cycle
tour of part of the Island: excellent stuff: there are more 'wild' domestic pigs
on the Island than humans, they play and squabble with the resident dog
population. The habit of burying granny in the front garden is not well
developed here (see previous Cook Island blog) - maybe due to the habbit of the
pigs to dig up the front gardens! Next day we provisioned for our cruise
through the small Islands of the group: and so here we are, early on Sunday
morning, relieved that our anchor has not dragged in this anchorage. We are
surrounded by chartered boats from the 'Moorings' charter base in Neiafu,
mostly Australian and Kiwi crews, a few British, so we are told.
Over to Vicky who as usual will edit out anything
above that she doesn't agree with, and add a tale or two of her
own:
"Hi all! To give you an idea of where we are: The
Kingdom of Tonga is made up of a 4 groups of islands spreadout over many
hundread miles from north to south. Tongatapu is in the southern most
large island group and is where the king lives (Tonga is self governing -
it's never been a colony) and where the international airport is and
therfore where we are heading to; Me and Laurie are departing and 2p
and Hannah arriving in just less than 2 weeks time! Going north from
Tongatapu about 60 miles is the Ha'apapi ('Happy'!) group, beautifull low coral
islands, lots of beaches and reefs and they quite deserted. North again
about 70 miles is the Vava'u group (where we are now). These
are higher islands full of inlets and bays and consists of a main island (its only 10miles long!)
with a scattering of 60 smaller islands to the south and west, the
furthest one is only 20 miles away! This creates a sepctacular cruising
ground, with hundreds of possible anchorages, coral reefs for snorkelling, beaches, sea caves and coves to
explore, often anchorages are less than a mile away from each
other! The Vavau group of islands are all protected from the large pacific
swell by a long reef/string of islands on the eastern side which keeps
the seas flat (lucky for Laurie!) and the marine life
is thriving. The Moorings and Sunsail charter companies have set up
small bases in the main port here and our first anchorage is one of the popular
ones (mainly because it's well sheltered in the current strong winds!).
With relief Lauire found us easily on the wharf
when we were clearing customs, luckily Neiafu isn't a big place and word
travells fast as there is no mobile reception. Fleck was 2 days late and
i'd booked Laurie in to 'The Paradise International Hotel' for a few days
in order to await our arrival. It sounded good but Laurie
wasn't so sure; slighly shabby, outrageous orange carpet, aircon that
sounds like a jet engine; but me and Dad were so throughly impressed
by the shower and seemingly endless hot water! After a coupel
of days in Neiafu to get our breath back (and more than the necessary amount of
showering!) we have set off to explore the other anchorages and
lagoons. The winds should calm down soon before we set sail south to
explore the Ha'apapi group and then on to the capital for the end of the
voyage"
And in usuall Fleck style, over to the newest Crew
member:
Hi all, I'll try and be brief as the blog is in
danger of growing as Fleck becomes busier.
Tonga is as friendly, clean and beautiful as you
would expect, although the weather is yet to be 'tropical'. However, what is
really impressive (especially having just come from Singapore) is the
sustainability of the place. Food comes from the garden or a local field, and
restaurants are able to conjure up even western dishes like burgers and fries
with produce available from the village. Needless to say the fish is all lovely
and fresh.
Anyway, it is great to have joined Fleck at
last and I'm hoping there will be more adventures to come.
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