Carriacou
Ile Jeudi
Bob and Lin Griffiths
Mon 15 Jun 2015 19:14
12:27.36N 61:29.30W
Tuesday 9 to Monday 15 June 2015
We discovered that the fridge had defrosted overnight. Oh golly
gosh. I tested various components with the multi meter and Lin emptied the
fridge to mop out all the water. I couldn’t find anything wrong but the
sea water cooling water pump wasn’t always running when it should. We ran
the engine to charge the batteries in case the voltage was too low and Lin
restocked the fridge. The pump was running again. Fortunately we
have very little in the small freezer section at the moment so little was at
risk.
We motored the 4 or 5 miles over to Clifton Harbour on Union Island and
anchored off the ‘Happy Bar’ which has been built on the reef. As we left
PSV we passed Mopion, a little sand bar on a reef with an umbrella for
visitors. It’s a shame it’s such a grey day as this can look quite
stunning:-
We cleared out of St Vincent and the Grenadines ready for departure the
next day and bought some fruit and veg from the various stalls. Being
paranoid I checked the fridge pump throughout the day and all was well.
On Wednesday we had a very nice sail in a beam wind for the 11nm to Tyrrel
Bay in Carriacou.
Looking aft from under the protection of the bimini, Union Island to the
left, Palm Island at right:-
The bay is often crowded but, again, many boats have already moved down to
Grenada or Trinidad so there was ‘room at the inn’. Clearance in here is
now straightforward as Customs and Immigration are in the same building and I
checked into Grenada, which includes the islands of Carriacou and Petite
Martinique before returning to the boat for a nice quiet night at anchor.
The following morning we woke to find the fridge had started to defrost
again. There was even less in the freezer now but it was frustrating to
empty the fridge again, mop out, dry the food and reload. The pump had
again stopped running although it was getting enough voltage. We carry a
spare so swapped the old pump out and, a few plumbing and electrical connections
later, everything was running properly again. I dismantled the old one and
despite having a pre filter the pump chambers were full of clag and quite a few
barnacles. Barnacles do like to grow wherever water flows quickly so I
imagine a water pump is just about ideal for them. After digging out the
barnacles and generally cleaning up I put it back together and did a test across
the house batteries. Et voila. Le pump est working! So that
goes back into stock as a spare. Not low voltage at all.
That night a Cruisers Pizza Night had been arranged at the Iguana Bar
beside the boatyard and we joined ‘Smart Move’ and met Becky and Dave on ‘Seas
the Moment’, Richard and Lavinia on ‘Partners’ and Les on ‘Go Lightly’.
These are all names we have been hearing over the VHF over recent weeks and it
was good to put faces to voices. The Iguana Bar was slightly overwhelmed
by the number of customers and the food arrived piecemeal but was very
good. Another very pleasant evening in good company.
On Friday we went ashore for breakfast at the Gallery Cafe (and used their
internet of course). This was started by two English ladies about 18
months ago and seems to be doing quite well although one of the ladies has given
up and returned to England, the difficulties of trying to get things done in the
Caribbean apparently proving too frustrating. Lin dropped off some laundry
down the road and trawled the various fruit and veg stalls and small
‘supermarkets’ for some provisions.
We had drinks in the evening with Becky and Dave aboard ‘Seas the Moment’,
their 50 foot Voyage catamaran. This is the first catamaran I have been on
with adequate airflow in the saloon and aft deck. Feeling lazy, we went
ashore afterwards for dinner at ‘The Lazy Turtle’ and tried some Lionfish which
were lovely. It is said that some Lionfish were accidently introduced to
the waters off Florida from an aquarium tank that was damaged in a storm.
They breed at a heck of a rate and have overrun much of the Caribbean.
Unfortunately they eat the reef fish which keep the coral clean which in turn
helps it to grow. Consequently Lionfish are a pest and with their
poisonous spines have no natural predators. Some dive shops have started
to hold Lionfish hunts in the last year or so and they are starting to appear on
menus as once the spines are removed they are quite safe. Or so we are
told. If this blog suddenly stops then you know otherwise.
On Saturdays Rufus sets up his fruit and vegetable stall in Tyrrel
Bay. He is a local organic farmer so Lin paid him a visit. He is
trying to tempt Lin with a bag of charcoal:-
As you can see it is a small business but he is ‘ a very nice man’.
The rain is starting to appear with increasing frequency as we reach the
wet season. Some tropical waves, which are atmospheric, have been passing
through and some days it’s not possible to leave the boat. We did venture
out on an island tour on Monday though with Robyn and Barry on ‘Smartmove’ and
Jim and Sharna from ‘Second Spray’. So we had couples from the UK, the US
and Canada on board. Carriacou is a pretty small island and the tour only
took two hours.
The best view on the island is at the Princess Royal Hospital, renamed
after a visit in 1960. It always surprises me that these places are not
again renamed after they gain independence.
Looking down from the hospital on the capital, Hillsborough. To the
right is Sandy Island, a small reef which comes and goes after various
storms. It is recovering after palm trees were replanted a few years ago
and mooring buoys have been installed to prevent damage to the reef from
anchors:-
On the east side of the island they make boats on the beach in the
traditional way:-
Part of the keelson at the stern. This is made of greenheart, a very
hard wood from Guyana often used in house building because it is too dense for
termites to eat:-
It’s going to take a heck of a lot of caulking to fill these gaps between
the planking. Once wet the wood swells which helps seal the gaps further
but I think this will need a few bilge pumps as well :-
The boat builders are unperturbed by the wrecks on the adjacent
shore. There are two here. Note the cacti growing on the aft deck of
the outer wreck and the sargassum weed washed ashore:-
One of the old traditional houses on the beach on the east coast:-
We did also pass this busy sub post office. Apparently this is still
open:-
Once we got back the heavens opened and it was some time before we could
return to the boat. We are waiting now for this current rash of tropical
waves to clear up in about a weeks time and then will head on down to Port Louis
in Grenada, about 30 nm away and later to the south coast to get some jobs done
before lifting out sometime in July. |