Atlantic crossing to Madeira
After 2 weeks of waiting for a suitable weather
window the
day arrived. We were all a little apprehensive as Aardvarc
had not done
such a long journey ( 450 miles) in one go before and although the
weather
looked favourable ( north easterly winds all week) we knew that
forecasts are
just that and can change quickly and unexpectedly.
Little did we know that that would be exactly
what was about
to happen!! We filled up with water and fuel and also had
an extra can
of diesel on the stern with 25 litres of fuel in it. With a
following wind we
were not expecting to have to use fuel but better to be on the
safe side….. Robert had prepared us for the journey by
cooking up a beef cassoulet and I cooked a seafood feijoada . This
was just as well as it turned out. We settled in for a nice sail, wind on the
quarter so
perfect and sailed all day in moderate winds, no engine, and all
looking good. Then the thunderstorms began. Great big swathes
of jagged
scary forks hitting the sea not far away followed shortly by
enormous bangs.
We have heard tales of the effects of lightning
strikes on boats
and were suitably apprehensive ( scared s***less more like!) Using the radar we were able to detect the
position of the
worst squalls ahead and tried to dodge them. However, they were
not short-lived
and our trepidation lasted all night leaving us ragged by the next
day. Robert did the only thing you can do at 4am in
such
circumstances and made us a bacon sandwich!
That was great for some of us but the smell of
frying bacon
was sadly an aggravation for poor Heather who was curled up in her
bunk
suffering from mal de mer and mal de donner und blitzen! Day 2 was a bit better, the sky cleared and we
had a good
sail all day and a clear night with wonderful constellations and
shooting
stars. However, the word from Bruce was not good…. The predicted following winds were about to
change and hit
us from in front..providing a portent of crashing into waves,
slamming down
them and adding miles to our journey because of tacking into the
wind…oh dear! And then the wind backed and came round on our
nose…shame
Bruce was right this time…
Cue engine on to help sail close to the wind
and
unfortunately again, worse conditions for Heather. She would from time to time appear from her
cabin to
reassure us she was still alive and then retire again after a few
minutes,
often via the heads ( toilet) …. We all just had to grit our teeth and stick
with it. 2 hours
watches seemed best and eventually Friday morning arrived and we
were within a
few hours of our destination. Robert and Diana remained resourceful and
cheerful throughout ( well there were a few moments)
The nights are very long, 6pm till 7am, and
everything seems
more scary in the dark, the waves seem bigger and changing sails
is harder with
torchlight. Friday morning the squalls appeared again. A big black cloud with rain clearly falling
from it would
appear on the horizon and head our way, there was no escaping it.. Suddenly the wind would increase to over 30
knots i.e. near
gale force, and we would have 2 reefs in the main sail and a tiny
bit of jib
out. Rain was so dense you could not see but a few yards ahead,
but at least
the boat had a good wash down! By about 10 am we could see the small island of
Porto Santo….the
shout of land ho! Went up and spirits rose.
We were however a bit low on fuel and had to
undertake the
precarious transfer of fuel from can to tank in between the
squalls. Would we
have enough fuel?? The answer came 5 miles out when the engine
suddenly stopped…whoops… We had a couple of litres in the bottom of the
can so poured
this in and bled the engine…it started..phew! Since the wind was on the nose we switched off
the engine to
preserve the precious few drops and tacked under sail towards
Porto Santo, this
was easier now as the wind was offshore and the shelter from the
island gave us
flatter seas.
A short distance out from the harbour we
dropped the sails
and started the engine…I prepared the anchor in case the engine
were to
suddenly cut out, as I had visions of us being blown into the
harbour wall if
we had no steerage from the engine. The mariniero, suitably named “Nelson” came out
to help us
and at last our journey was complete. We had covered over 500 miles in just over 3
days, not bad
going. Heather availed herself of the only sure cure
for sea
sickness…she sat under a tree!!!
It worked…
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