We arrived in Tahiti on the 22nd after a benign sail from the Tuamotu
islands. After the crystal blue waters that we enjoyed and solitude in the
Tuamotus to arrive into Papeete was a little shock. The last time we
had seen cars was a month ago, and to travel in one, well I hadn’t been in one
since the Galapagos Islands nearly 2 months
previously. So to lie in my bunk at night and be kept awake by of the light of
the moon, the light from a 200watt street light took its place.
Most mornings since our arrival
you could find us touring the industrial estates of Papeete. This is the
capital of Tahitis tourist and industrial industry. It has everything you could
ever want but at the price you would never want to pay. They say in French Polynesia the French have the money, the
Polynesians have the land and the Chinese own the shops. There is a big
population of Chinese people here. They run everything from the music shops to
the plumbers’ merchants… but I haven’t seen a Chinese restaurant yet…
Yesterday (26th) we
hired a car and went on an into the blue magical mystery tour of Tahiti… now,
there is only one road on the island that goes around the edge so as long as you
keep the sea on your right you can’t get lost… There has been a lot of swell
from the southern ocean due to it being autumn down here, and the big lows of
the roaring forties send up massive swells north right up to a little bay they
call in Tahiti, Teahupoo. This place to surfers
is considered one of the most heavy waves in the world that has clamed lives
over its short history of people surfing this wave… we are very fortunate to be
here at the same time as the Billabong Tahiti pro competition is on. This is one
of the world championship venues.
Teahupoo is a little place with
an awesome view. In the background are the hills that form the volcano on the
island of
Tahiti iti, and in the
ocean the wave goes over a coral reef 700 meters out to sea. The waver breaks on
6 foot of water and so causes the wave to have a face of 20foot and the back to
only be 4 foot. There were heats for the competition going on, so there were a
lot of activity in the water; we were one of 20 boats hovering around the edge
of the shoulder of the wave. When the first big ‘set’ came in the place erupted
with shouting and wooing as the big beast showed us why this place is so
renowned.
All in all a good day out, and
cheap, which is saying something here. The most expensive place in the world. To
go out on a Saturday night you have to go and chat to the bank manager, or if
that fails do the lottery, but the winners of the lottery can only just afford
to live here in this paradise.
Sam.
