Gourmandising in the Grenadines – and beyond

Guest blog by Ali Leaf and Andrew Wilkinson

Ali and Andrew arrived as the hard grind was winding down and the partying was starting. Into the Blue had completed almost an entire circumnavigation and, after a rough passage from Brazil, Robert, Ed, Andy and Sam had reached the relatively calm waters of the Caribbean. The time had come for a re-charging of the batteries – and what better way than by sampling the local cuisine.

First – a quick word about the sailing. The last section of this epic journey heads north-east from Grenada to St Lucia. Unfortunately the prevailing wind appeared to be north-easterly, so although we had the sails up some of the time, motoring was usually a more efficient way to travel. We cruised north through the Windward Isles – the small jewels of the ‘Grenadines’ – including Carriacou, the Tobago Cays – smudges of white sand and palm trees surrounded by turquoise waters, and on to Mustique, where we moored in Britannia Bay. An overnight passage brought us home to St Lucia. Andrew and I were given the last watch – not too bad as it was almost daylight. We awoke to pink sky and the distant sight of the majestic ‘Pitons’ rising vertically from the sea on the southern tip of St Lucia. Fifteen minutes later a large container ship appeared on the starboard horizon – oh help! The greatest fear is being hit by one of these. A quick glance at the computer chart told me we were on direct course for collision in twelve minutes time! We summoned Captain Robert who neatly tucked us in behind it and with peace restored, we all enjoyed the early morning sail to one of the most beautiful moorings in the world, nestling between Grand Piton and Petit Piton.

So, back to the goumandising….. Grenadian highlights included a wonderful Creole restaurant – Coconut Grove – nestling under palm trees on Grand Anse beach. After a hot walk along the sand we feasted on lobster (‘ginger-boy’), seafood-gratin and pan-fried mahi-mahi. Unfortunately the sauvignon blanc – with nose of ‘sea breezes and oysters’ was out of stock – but I suspect we found a substitute. Food pretty good – location stunning. Another restaurant highlight was ‘De Big Fish’ at Prickly Bay, where Ed and Andrew had a particularly divine fish curry – and when we disparaged the ‘cellar’ selection the waitress popped out to the supermarket and fetched something better! The home-cooking highlight was red snapper – bought by Andrew and Ed on the quayside and baked with ginger and lime. Served with delicious boiled potatoes and broccoli and accompanied by a little white burgundy – pretty fine.

Another in-house triumph was Ed’s tuna and prawn salad – magicked up for a late lunch as we moored in the paradise of Tobago Cays, and enjoyed on deck with green turtles drifting by on their way to the sea-grass meadows.

Mustique is the island of luxury living. We had the best pina-coladas, followed by an excellent dinner at Basil’s Bar – a hotch-potch of colourful shacks by the quay-side. Andy and I had the day’s special of coconut-crusted mahi-mahi, which was superb. Mick Jagger was also eating there – but unfortunately the night before us! The following day we took a little tour up the hillside and landed at the Firefly – a boutique hotel and restaurant nestling in the trees. Rattan ceiling fans circulate a cool breeze and we could see Into the Blue in the bay far below. Again the fish was delicious – pan-fried tuna, prawn kebabs and a light and crispy fish and chips – with tartare sauce on request! Puddings have been eaten in moderation – but the frozen lime cheesecake and chocolate mousse with home-made vanilla ice-cream at Firefly definitely deserve a mention.

Diana joined us on St Lucia and our celebratory dinner was in the restaurant at Jalousie resort close to the Pitons. Here we feasted on king fish with pumpkin mousse, as well as home-made ravioli, sea-food risotto and pork cutlets (from the local bay of pigs?). On arrival at Marigot Bay we had another celebratory lunch at the Hurricane Hole restaurant in the marina – with excellent pizzas, shark-burgers and salads.

In between all this we live simply on toast and marmalade, tea and coffee, fresh fruit and the odd glass of champagne.