Kava
Pacific Bliss
Colin Price
Tue 25 Jun 2013 09:28
"Captains log.
Seadate....."
Kava
We walked up hill to Ikunala Village with Chief Yappa, a venerable old man
with a salt-n-pepper beard and wild hair, who visited Prince Phillip in London
20 years ago to tell the Prince he was the living embodiment of some souls from
Tanna who left the island after the second world war (not quite sure how HRH
responded, but I doubt he was moved as he hasn't had much to do with the island
or Chief Yappa since). I had no idea what was to come.
The road started out on concrete, then went to dirt, and then as it wound
into the mountains we walked on through forest and tracks until we reached this
Kastom (custom) village about a 2 hour walk out of Lenakel town. The last
approach was along a vertigous spine between two rain-forest valleys hanging
with mist. Without pictures it is hard to describe this village of 100
people perched up on a mountainside, other than to refer to National
Geographic. The ground is black packed mud from volcanic ash and the huts,
which only last 2-3 years, are made from sticks and woven walls. Each
Tanna village has a Nakamal, normally under the boughs of a huge sacred banyan
tree, where the men gather each afternoon after the days work is done to drink
kava the local substitute for beer and just like the local pub the men discuss
village events and issues, only with rather more impact afterwards. Done
in the traditional 'Kustom' way it's a important daily ritual.
At every market you can find kava roots, which look like any old plant
root, bound up in bundles for sale.
We arrived in the village and Cosmo and I were taken to a small hut in the
Nakamal, where a few of the village men were squatting round a few smoking
sticks - the girls had been taken off to another part of the village. One
of the men was cleaning up kava roots by scraping them with a machete, then
cutting them up. The next bit I missed, but around us all the young boys
of 10 years or so had their mouths crammed with something that they were chewing
and that was followed by a lot of spitting, I rather hoped they wouldn't ask
Cosmo to try as it looked horrid. The whole scene was peaceful and we were
pretty much ignored and were just offered a knob of wood to use as a stool to
sit on - no ceremony here.
A little while later Chief Yappa said that I was going to drink Kava with
him - well, having been invited to walk up the hill and to visit his very
traditional village for fear of being rude I felt bound to accept. I was
able to take a few photos of the men in traditional undress with just willy
shaped protuberances made of rushes to hide their dignity (I promise to post
some photos when we get real internet). No makeup and no bones through
noses, but pretty much out-there, and in such a natural environment.
Back to the hut where a coconut fibre mat was passed around with about 10
lumps of - oh my god - masticated kava root on it, and I realised what I was
into. The kids had been chewing the root to soften it, and now it was
about to be made into a drink, and I was going to have to drink it! The
mat was removed to another hut where it was prepared, I saw an old oil bottle
being used to bring some water of unknown origin to mix it with as the root was
squeezed through the mat. Then, suddenly, I was ushered outside with the chief
where we were each presented with half a coconut full of what looked like cold
dirty tea. I watched him down his coconut and steeled myself, and tried
not to think how it had been made and the half-coconut full of germs I had in
front of me. Well it was like drinking muddy water, rather gritty and
fairly tasteless - I drank half the coconut and with a suppressed shudder gave
the rest to the chief who finished it off for me. My lips went a bit numb,
and I had a slight light headiness like after a couple of gin and tonics.
.
Thank goodness that was all, as we had to walk all the way back down the
very steep hill in the pitch dark with rain and mud above our ankles, or
glistening smooth making for a very lethal slide. It took about two hours going
down and we decided that this rated as one of our top 3 extreme/crazy walks
since we have been away. Everyone slipped over, Cosmo and chief's son
actively finding the slippiest slopes, needless to say we were all filthy.
This is a daily event for the chief and his family they don't have a torch and
given they must be well into there sixties and still managed to carrying their
baby sleeping grandson in sling over there shoulders these people are awesome.
Our 12 year old translator has to do the journey there and back each day for
school.
It is now 3 days later and I am still miraculously alive and well.
Not sure I'll rush to repeat the experience, but wouldn't have missed it for
anything. |