Ua Huka - Fruity Island
Pacific Bliss
Colin Price
Sat 4 Feb 2012 01:41
Ua
Huka
At the festival Ua Huka
enchanted us all with there version of the 'dance d'oiseux' (bird dance),
The lady oiseau danced like a ballerina then with great skill and a great
deal of humour the men of the island danced and did battle 3ft in the air with
the aid of beatifully carved stilts. So Ua Huka was a destination we'd
looked forward to. It is the wood carving capital of the
Marquesas and also the islands of the horse - hundreds of wild horses
roam here. But with the lack of water the landscape is near to
luna or desert and many many horses are now dieing. In the UK you
could fence your precious nag into your field - here all gardens and
fields are fenced to protect them from the ferral horses.
Baie
Haavei
Our trip over from Nuku Hiva is a day
sail but of course the wind has shifted 24hrs earlier than expected so it's a
beat. We leave with 3 other boats but once we arrive in Haavei it's
blowing a hooley, so we're really not sure how long it's going to be tenable to
stay, and by the following morning it's impossible due to swell for us to land
the dinghy.
This valley is owned by the once
influential Litchle family, and its a rather sad deserted
compound that once must have been are rather glorious and
frivilous place in the 60's and 70's
But we are really sadly we have to say
goodbye to Philip and Micheal as they have discovered that Philips dad passed
away during the night so they need to get back to France
toot-sweet.
s/v Tereva in
Haavei before they had to leave the next day
So the remaining boats take off in
search of more protected anchorage, which proves to be impossible. Dispite
the discomfort and the rather trechorous landing conditions, we all where
swimming costumes to land and the kids are in life jackets for the first
time but something is pulling us to stay, so as we dig the anchor in
we wave goodbye
to the fellow boats.
Baie de
Hane
So we brave the waves
crashing on the beach and make it onto Terre Firma, after a week we're rather a
dab hand barly getting our toes wet. First thing we notice is how super
friendly everyone is. Folk don't just smile to acknowledge
you, they wave vigirous from there cars and your never able
to pass by anyone without shaking hands and having a little
chat. It's also an incredibly quiet place in the mornings you
see few folk walking around it only the humming of
the carvers at work that let you know folk arn't
asleep.
Carving is
everywhere - in stone, wood and bone.
We aim to do about 3 or 4
activities here and then move on to the next island but 3 or 4 things turns into
3-4 weeks. We're all back on form able, happy and healthy enough to take
on a few adventures. The island has 4 villages well spaced apart so some
days we go walking others it's a hitch. Again the folk are incredibly
friendly you don't just get a lift our made to depart the car with
mountains of Biscuits, cakes, Avocado's and of course always fruit. Infact the
fruit is becoming a bit of a problem. We are now unable to leave the shore
without being laden down with fruit. So for the first time in my
life I'm making jam, marmalade and chutney. Luckily
our friends from Califonia how had been through Polinesia 5 yrs earlier had
urged us to save all our jam jars, then folk where desprate for
anything. ohh but how times have changed. Ironically, having used all of
our supplies of jars, 5yrs on it's us asking the people from Ua Huka
if they have any empty jars, these usually come in the shape of a
Large Nutella jar.
.
. . . a days gifts. Then what to do with it all?. . . . industrial jam and chutney making of course First walk over to Hakatu
The thing we really like
about Ua Huka is the lack of cars, we have found the ownership of cars
rather alarming No more so in Fatu Hiva where given there is only 2km of road it
seems rather over kill that everyone is the proud owner of a new 4x4
truck. Here everything is a little more dishevaled and the vehicles they
have are fit for purpose, lots of beaten up old landies. Only a few
of the younger folk have the motors bought on the 'never never'. but
more importantly there are actually big distances between the villages. Our
other big beef is that folk drink expensive fizzy drinks whereas on Pacific
Blisscold water and home made lemonade seems to be more in
evidence.
Where to go?
There is only a population
of nearly 600 on the islands and so far we've only found about 4 different
surnames - Fournier, Litchle being the most popular. But small is
beautiful and making friends in this increadibly hospitible island is easily
done. Due to the lack of cars it's essential to hitch a lift in the morning to
Vipaee so we turn the day into a school visit to learn about
the forna and flora at the islands Arboritum and then on to the
best museum in the Marquesas to learn about some of the beatifully carved
killing instruments from the island. Cosmo's
favourite being a 'Casse-Tete' (head basher). But many of the other items are
fascinating, like earings made from decendants bones. Shell buttons
once belonging to the missionaries that are later used to adorn there head
dresses, I just wonder what became of the missionary....
Museum traditional
dance rings
It seems that
so many of the show pieces of the islands where initiated by the
old major, of 36 yrs, 'Leon Litchle'. So we go in search of this fellow. Now aged in his 70's he couldn't
have been more welcoming immediately cutting open juicy Pample and feeding the
children sweet star fruit. After a mornings learning we hitch a ride back
this time with Napoleon Litchle another member of the
family!
Having felt we might not
last the night after eating up at Tovey after horse riding it was rather
alarming to meet the exact same family here, and rather more alarming Colin
unknowingly had accepted invatation picnic with them on the beach.
So after a lunch of horse meat and beer he then heads up the road to have
dinner with the local policeman. Chalk and cheese....
Beach party
Dinner with Kato
and Eliane, the policeman was a feast - poisson cru, fei, goat au lait de coco,
pork, bananas, breadfruit
On our visit over of
Vipeee colin spotted a rather beautiful and unusual Japanese
inspired house. Most of the houses here are flat pack that are
heavily subsurdised, you can buy a 3 bed house for 2,000€, but elegant it
certainly is not. So Colin was rather intriged and we went off one day in
search of Daniel the creator. After shouting through his open kitchen door
and disturbing him and his wife from there siesta. Danial who is 50%
covered in Tatoos emerged from his house looking rather frightening but in
trueth he's a rather wonderful artist and great charactor. We're given a
lift in the back of this beaten up pick up truck back to Hana and the next
day he arrived at the beach with mountains of fruit and 4 wonderfully
engraved necklaces for each of us bone dolphins for the boys and tiki
carved mother of pearl for the girls, it really is an extrodinary
place. Even the major has been chasing us around town to give
us a sack of grapefruit and a box of Starfruit.
Sunday and our planed walk
up to find some hidden petrogriphs is postponed due to Z having been really
rather ill over the past few days. That afternoon Colin sees a boat
approaching and to be honest our hearts sink abit. However this just turns
out to be another wonderful adventure. This boat doesn't just have
great grown ups on board, who's English is impeccible, it also has a girl aged 8
and a boy aged 6. They very very quickly become a very welcome
arrival.
Hector et
Clemence sur s/v Banana Split
We get dropped up the hill by the
policeman, Kato, and walk up to the tikis, passed dripping mango
trees.
And we drop in on Denis
Fournier who had made a stone carving for us
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