Tobago Cays & Union Island 12:39.5N 61:22.2W
Fri 16 Apr 2010 00:42
No-where is ever very difficult to leave if you your next stop is the Cays. It's a world famous bit of paradise. No Humans are allowed to set up home, so it's home to a turtle sanctuary, where you can swim with a dozen Turtles before breakfast, whilst they enjoy theirs. We went Iguana spotting, which isn't difficult on one of the small islands dotted around the crystal waters. One of these Islands is the one Jack Sparrow and Kiera Knightly enjoyed a stranded night drinking rum on, so that warranted a blissful day with the crews of Trinity and Discovery.
We where in the Cays with our lovely friends from Trinity which was great as it ment for my Birthday we could raft up enabling the kids to enjoy there last few days together. During the day the Girls, mums, went off for a lovely snorkell . Colin organising Sunset drinks on a beautiful beach with Trinity and a Canadian Family from a Boat called Discovery, who wrote me my first ever poem. I decided, in my infinent wisdom, to cook all day making Sushi, Dips and preparing lobster, oven Potatoes and Salads for dinner. It has to be the hottest day we have ever experienced so not the best idea I've had todate. The best part of it all was having a cake arrive by Dingy loaded with light candles. Colin is a superstar. Due to the location of the day is was just as well i had purchased birthday presents in St Anne when Lynn Saunders was with us, it saved any disappointed and took the pressure was off last minute colin., there isn't much to buy in the Carribean bar Rum at tge best if times. Not a bad place to celebrate 42years of age.
A bit of good snorkelling
The main town,Clifton, is quite low key. It is probably to date the most undeveloped of the Grenadines that we've visited, and with this is has a charm. This is possible going to change. We hooked up with Tim and Steph here and made a plan to anchor off a beach on the other side of the Island.
'Happy Island' in Clifton Bay. An island built on conch shells and then added to bag of cement by bag of cement until the man had an island to put a bar on!
A few days later they made it round to CHATHAM BAY. The first few nights we hung out at a new beach bar, Chatham is a really quiet anchorage with about 6 beach bars most are very low key but a new fancy one with swimming pool has recently been and this suggest the writing may be on the wall for low-key Chatham.
We have been trying to save a wee bit of money with the PB facelift. So my volunteering for the sewing of the all things belonging in the cockpit is an ongoing frustration. My machine loathes the fabric and after every few inches it chews the hole thing up, It's not worth being around me when the job is in hand. That said Colin and the kids disappeared off to the shore for an afternoon, It looks to me from my birds eye position on the boat that Colin is visiting all the beach bars, and talking with all the local residence and maybe sampleing the local mixes....... That afternoon Colin met a group of folk we had heard the night before making music, they live on the beach in huts and tents in a very very back sort of way. Colin had been invited back that evening to join in with the music making but sadly alittle bit too much of the local mixes left him only musical in snore land. But a plan was afoot for the following evening when Tim and Colin after dinner paddled ashore. I slept on the Trampoline that night so went to sleep listening to music-ish making and sent me into hoot of laughter whilst dropping off.
The next morning.................. The Boys had had a fabulous night hanging out with the guys on the beach, the main guy is Pleasure. Pleasure is a wonderful man, a rasterhairian, but a lovely man, and it just so happens that today is his Birthday. However the night before Colin and Tim had been invited to acouple of expodisions! Colin was first to be invited Spear Fishing, so not wanting to be out done Tim got himself invited to go Iguana Hunting, a local delicacy, and guess what it's surpose to taste like Chicken....................
Once Steph and I had stopped laughing about the prospect of our husbands becoming 'Great White Hunters,' off they trecked, or paddled.
Some hours later the boys returned Tim with an Iguana and a Goat, his surgeon skills make in to good effect with the skinning and butchering and colin returned with an array of tropical fish all speared by Desmond. So with the protein gathered the cooking commenced for Pleasures Birthday Party.
We where so welcomed it was wonderful, I suspect most yachties don't stop at Pleasure's bar, as he only seems to sell Rum, Cigarettes, Eggs and Carnation Milk, it not neccessarily what the average visitor needs. That afternoon we were given a guided tour up over the hill to the nearest village . On route we met lots of locals all who gave us fruit from there gardens, we sampled Mango, Plums, and for the first time Tamarind all plucked from the Tree. Sadly our walking tour took longer than expected so returned to Chatham bay to a rather tired and emotional Pleasure.
Tension between the group grow high and we found ourselves stuck between a rock and hard place. The conversations that insued where all rather hilarious though. So we all retired rather early after we had given Pleasure his birthday cake and all his presents. We eat Rosetta's, Pleasures lovely and hardworking and longsuffering partner, Goat Stew and medley of colourful Fish. thanked everyone and scuttles home.
The Community at Chatham Bay were wonderful, definitley disfunctional but a family non the less. Pleasure is a Star in the making apparently Tony Blair was on the beach some time ago and ended up spending time with Pleasure, I suspect he didn't drink his rum or take a smoke with him............. We have sent friends to make a recording of Pleasure singing one of his songs, and when this does happen you too can listen to the KING OF CHATHAM BAY, Cosmo loved him so much he made him a crown for his birthday.
It's definitely one of the highlights of our trip, and the 'Don't let Tony develop Chatham bay campaign' is about to be initiated.
ps. the local form of greeting is to make a fist and touch it to your friends fist. Then bring it back to your chest and say, "One Love". Sam, rather amusingly, had missheard and this would bring his fist to his chest and earnestly say, "One Loaf"!
Petite St Vincent and Petite Martinique
A short stone's throw from Union are two islands separated by about 200m of water that are in different countries. Petit St Vincent has a lovely little island off it, and I mean little, with a single little hut and nothing else. Great spot to land on and play Robinson Crusoe.
Petit Martinique is a bit more bustling, and it is rumoured that due to smuggling has one of the highest GDP per head in the Caribbean. Anyway, we had a long hike up to the top of the hill and back to the town, filled up with diesel and headed down to Carriacou.
View from the top