Penhryn - part 2
Pacific Bliss
Colin Price
Sun 1 Jul 2012 22:51
Penhryn, Te Tautua Village - Part
2
When we left French Polynesia our plan was
to visit fewer and perhaps less visited places, yet stay
longer. This plan allows us to hang out with Island folk more and
really get a feel for a way of life and community. Well in Penrhyn
we achieved this with gusto. So much so this is the hardest entry we've
writen. So much happened, never a boring day was had. For us it is perhaps
the most interesting and involved we've been anywhere - however I'm afraid
it might just be the most boring to read.
'What a lot of laughter', this is the
place we have howled more than anywhere else. This atoll sits far away from
anywhere and lives in a very Cookie world of it's own. Everyone is related
to everyone and your told on a daily basis that the person your talking about,
in a good light, is their Cousin and perhaps that's why they're a good
person. As with every family there's good, bad, hard working and
plain idle and because it's a family, busy folk look after the
others. Along with being a family it's also a microcosm of a world
population. With that in mind we have retired each evening to discuss
the personalities and our stories of the day, far too many to retell but reel
with laughter we have.
Warren
Colins Twin
Soloman Ma
P
Mike, Penwee, and Mama Aroha Tamu
Teina Headteacher Minister
Joe
Aroha
making making Poki Ma P and
Henry
Rio
Some of the Characters:(when reading these names
remember that the 'r' is replaced with a 'L'. It something that
still perplexes us, why so many names with R are repeatedly
chosen!)
Soloman - larger than life, Dressed in a
Diamond and dollar shirt and seeming more akin with Mr Big from 'Lock Stock
and two shooting barrells' than the born again Penrhyn Christian he
is.
Rio - Short, round and packed with energy.
He resembles a blind Sole singer, doned in over sized black suit, flipflops and
dark glasses when leaning against the church post every sunday belting out
some deep harmony.
MaMa P - The rather beautiful, toothless.
chainsmoking forever yaking or kakling but quite the most canny old
bird.
Ricky - Gold toothed 60 something, just returned
from NZ. Determined not to make any friends with the spongers that
are his people, lives like a recluse at the end of the motu having evicted
everyone living on his land.
Papa Saitu - The self proposed Village elder. If
stories about his past antics are to be believed 'it's a shocker!'.
Warren - Possesses astonishing powers of
lethargy. He has a lazy eye - but we decided it wasn't his eye
that was lazy, his eye was fine, it is the rest of his body that has the
problem.
The Head Teacher - Not so much a teacher and not
from these parts. He is more an administator, this man has more programmes and
initiatives than any government in waiting.
Minister and Wife - Obviously we're
new to Penhryn understanding the role of a minister is
sacrosanct. It seems 'you haveuth, then you shareth
it with me' is an accepted sentiment.
Tamu - an incredibly hard working give-all chap
who is definitly the 'Queen' of the island.
Art - Certainly not a slave to housework.
As one rather posh friend once told me, "House-work darling is
soooo middleclass!' Having known she was leaving for Rarotonga any day
soon her home looked like a tornado had just driven through it and then back
again. Having peered through the window, out of interest, once she'd
departed for perhaps a year. The opened half eaten tin of 'pork and beans'
was still sitting on the table. whilst clothes and cups of juice and
coffee carpeted the floor.
Tarua and Aroha - Very gentle
folk immensly happy to have returned to there spiritual home and people
after 20yr overseas. They're just coming to terms with the idiosyncrasies
of the community.
Mike - the rare speaking, fix-it man on the
island. A gentle giant
Like the Brits talk about the weather,
Pehnryn folk's preoccupation, other than the family lineage, is when the
next supply boat might be arriving. It's horrifying the Cook
Island Government have simply forgotten this end of there national geography, so
these little populated atoll have to rely on commercial trading boats from Samoa
and Hawaii. On our second week, at huge expense, a vast New Zealand Naval
ship (N Z Aide) arrives with emergency supplies of Deisel. At
least the generator won't shut down. But what a fiasco and a royal
waist of money. The vast lump of steel is unable to enter
the lagoon so the fuel supplies have to be helicoptered ashore, this mean
bringing another ship up from NZ that carries a Helicopter equipped for the
job. Goodness know how much it must have cost to get these
vessel up here but the island is still out of any basic provisions, along with
petrol for there outboards. Now supplies are at an precariously low
state. Fine as everyone can survive on coconut and fish but soon the
fish will become a problem as only a few folk still have enough petrol to
go fishing and the art of sailing is long lost.
We've been here a couple of weeks now so tobacco
supplies really are at an all time low, The pattern goes something like
this; Smoke constantly until your papers run out then go and blag papers
off someone else, only Mama P seem to have papers left at the end, and the
marvelous old bird keeps those hidden away and happily doles out cut up white
paper that previously housed loo-roll. Ma P also appears to have
rationed her supplies, she's the last person to have to carve up something
called 'Irish Cake'. Given I'm Irish and have been baking none stop since
arriving here I too have provided the community with 'Irish Cake' . However
not quite as foul and lung rotting as the stuff these guys resort to. What
I think it is, is a large block of 'Tar' that has been dried and compressed so
the folk now have to carve it off the block before using Ma P's loo Paper
packaging to roll the leathal stuff up. And if that's not bad enough
once this supply has come to an end it's over to the kids and the grannies
to go hunt 'fag butts' from an earlier less waste concious time'. It
truely is like hanging out at a Betty Ford clinic, enmass. We make an
unconcious decision to hang out with the non-smokers (not many) as everyone else
is going through detox. Poor 'Mr Big' Solomon is visibly inflating
and is looking and sounding very depressed. Having not
had a supply boat for 6 months the island is literally running out of
everything - rice, flour, milk powder, nappies. But it is increadible how
well everyone is managing, again the coconut saves the day and
by grating the soft new innered of a budding nut, 'utto' you're
able to make a rather delicious suety cake type of carbohydradate much like
raisin free 'plum duff' - if only we had a bit of Birds custard we could
be back to Post War Blighty in a blink. It is very enlightening to
be living somewhere that has no shop and where deliveries may or may not
come every six months. Some people still have stock piles which are
variously shared or horded secretly - as property is pretty much communal if
someone has something then if its is asked for then it is given. On the
last week of our stay the cry goes out that Ma P has finally come to the ends of
her smokes, but her very loyal and lovely toothless old
friend, old Cora, is trying to help save the day and is still
hunting for the butts!
Our weekly election to leave by the end of that
week continually foxes us and another week of adventures roll on, along with the
Minister each Sunday thanking us for coming and hope that our "onward journey
would be a peaceful and safe time". He gave up with any expectation of us
leaving by week five. Given English is a second language and alot of the older
generation barley speak any English. We enjoyed being thanked by church deacon
Papa Saitu who made a rather interesting mispronouciation, or so we thought,
as he thanked us for teaching the children to sail and many other thing
and 'hoped' we would leave soon, we think he meant had 'heard', but we'll
never know.
Week 2 and we arrange to collect a couple of
Oppies from the village on the other side of the motto so that Colin can start
to teach the eager kids to sail. We're accompanied by six of the
senior citzens of the village on our way over, far more
comfortable than the aluminium bone shakers they're used to. Our boat now
resembles 'the Monday Club Bus' in Bosham (read OAP weekly bus trip in to Chi
and Tesco's) . Most of the folk are off to the bank, Ma P of course is
just coming for the ride and to sit and yak with the cousins.
The six cardboard boxes filled with tinned fish, don't ask, is
not a particularly welcome sight on the return trip - its
'roach o'clock.
Penhryn stamp
collection at the telecom station in Omoka
'Mr Colins' sailing lessons are a massive hit,
although he did manage to shout himself hoarse. They love it so much it's
becoming an incentive for the kids to go to school, well for a few at
least. Given these kids have never sailed before it is incredible how
quickly they get it. If only they had someone to teach them regularly and if
they had some boats I think we'd find some real stars in the making.
Within the first lesson they're out on the water racing, it's the best thing
we've done for kids on any island so far and it's magic to watch them lapping it
up.
'Badly' religious these folk are, but
no-one is afraid to ask for something, and some more than others! Mr T
asks me one day if we might have a spare alarm clock on the boat. He seems
at pains to ask but it is for a very good reason. Each day 7am and
7pm a bong is rung, on Tuesday, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays
there's an additional bell rung at 6am just to let folk know it's half
an hour til church. However the clock in the bell tower isn't
working. This turned in to a bit of calamity some months ago when
Papa Situ was on bell ringing duty. Having woken and seen the
state of the moon he was assured that it was time for action and
up and off to engage with the call to church. This is
not a noise you can ignore and roll over, everyone
blearily got out of bed, dressed and stumbled to church - only to find it was
3am. Sadly for the village we where unable to accommodate the islands
time issues. Despite the time checks morning and night there seems still
to be some confusion over the island's time zone. When late to deliver the
kids lunch one morning Colin bumped into Mata (know as Moody to us ,we love
her. but she has a very determined unimpressed facual _expression_),
she's the kindergarten teacher, walking away from the school. In a bit of
a rush Colin asked what time it was. Stoney faced, Mata looked at her watch and
replied, "Here, its half past ten". Colin, half jokingly, asked, "So what
time is it over there then?", pointing 50mtrs towards the
school. Mata, quite unperturbed replied, "Oh . . over
d'air is a quarter past ten". Sure enough, Colin wasn't late.
Flipp' we do feel we're in a rather Irish version of Local hero being
so close to the 'date line' perhaps these guys know something we don't and
infact the line starts here in the middle of the motu.
Kai Kai is a very big thing on this little
motu, whilst escaping breakfast KaiKai during the first week when doing the
school run Colin quickly circumes to the daily call of "Hana
mai, kaikai", from each occupied house he passes, "Come, eat eat" -
and then duely sits down for a fish, coconut milk and rice
breakfast. Everywhere you go people are always eating
something, or just having a weak coffee, drunk from the spout of a 2
litre jug, otherwise known as a 'Penrhyn teacup', accompaniesd with an otto
pancake, all of which are to be shared. Folk here have time to do this,
something we so lack in the UK, being so wrapped up in our fast-paced
lives. Perhaps this is how French Polynesia used to be years ago, but
thats all changed now, partly due to TV - we hope Tautua will stay in its laid
back ways. You have to allow at least a couple of hours
for a simple walk through the village to school..
Over the last weeks we have begun to reasses our
trip and one morning Liz wakes with one of those Eureka moments - should we
perhaps not go to Australia in November as planned, but instead spend this
season in the Cooks, Samoa, and Tonga before dropping down to NZ for the summer
(cyclone season) and then back up to Fuji, Vanuatu and New Caledonia in
2013 and then sell the boat, missing out bureaucratic
Australia completely. It will add a few months, and delay our
return to the UK a bit, but nothing on the grand scale. Now we are here it seems
better not to rush. Never one for a quick change of mind, but after a
few hours mulling it over, the skipper sees the sense in this and the new plan
is settled. The Eureka is actually based around the childrens return to
school in Britain. We have been hugely aware that we need to get Z back to
the UK in readiness for the 11yr old school shift. Since we started this
trip is has been a major concideration whether or not to hold Z back a year, all
acedemic reports seem to indicate children born late in their year group
struggle on many counts. So whilst observing Z at school here in Penrhyn
we see how confident and enthusiastic she is about learning, now she's top
dog. This finally helps us answer that long pondered question,
we now know it's the right thing to do. With new plans in place it allows us to stay
for, what has been billed as, the event of the island, Johncin's hair
cutting. This is the little boy I met at the Ministers house that first
Sunday and wondered if the very long haired child dressed head to toe in
'Ben-Ten' paraphernalia was in fact girl or boy. It all fell into place
once we had learned about this Cook Island ritual of a boy coming of
age. Post Sunday Lunch with Tamu, Ma P and Papa Henry we're given the
low down of the event, oh and shown a lump of hair from another infant who's
been shaun in public. Only this event has to wait and be structured around
a very busy Penrhyn schedule. Originally scheduled on Saturday the party
has to be bought forward so that folk from Omoka are able to stay in TuTuaua the
night and still make it back to attend church on Sunday. The use of any
sort of motor is disallowed on the 'lords day' so they have to be able to
move on Saturday. Not only that, the official open season to harvest
calms (pasua) is announced for the Monday and Tuesday of the same week.
This makes the preparation for the Mammouth KiaKia squeezed into two and
half days. And that is some mean feat.
Passua - clams to you or me. We where treated to
this much loved cook island speciality on the first Sunday. On first taste
it wasn't an immediate hit. These are the beautiful bright creatures,
colin and I have been captivated by since we reached French Polynesia.
However the Cookies don't see the assetic in them only there salivating
delight. Due to Penrhyn being the only place in the cooks that still has a
large quantity the major has sensibly banded any commucial harvesting other than
on 4 days a year. It's now law so much so folk and packages leaving the
island are checked for smuggling out of season with high penalties if
found. This change in law seems to have been a rather brilliant
decision. Now the price of the Passua has risen 6 fold, the work has
reduced to only 4 hard-core days a year and the stock remains healthy.
With this in mind Colin volunterred his services for a days experience. He
returned a weak man, however feeling a community commitment volunteered his
services to another family the following day. Something he later
regretted, but at least Tamu and Papa H where not the work horses Solo's lot
where. (read Colins Fishing Stories)
The preparation for the Hair Cutting began in earnest
on Wednesday. Scooping out coconut, grating and the making of Poci seemed
to be the main event but by Wednesday night Rio had organised a fishing trip to
the other end of the Atoll. Colin ever keen to experience something new
departed at sunset expecting to return at 2am'ish. When he finally came
into sight at 7.30 the following morning he was a broken man with pale face with
a rather determined grimace on his face (see Fishing stories).
With much excitement and expectation the grand event
arrived on Friday afternoon. Everyone dressed up for a party and
perhaps 20mtrs of table growning under the weight of the food.
Lobster, fish, the meat of 6 pigs and numerous concoctions. My
rather poultry offering of Sushi seemed a little out of kilter.
Everyone is called into the sunday school hall
whilst Johncin (we've only just realised his name is not Johnston but Johncin
(an anagram of his aunt Cindy and uncle Johnathan) is carried from the mission
house by his grandmother covered by a white satin hair cutting cape which
he uses to shrowd his head and hair now that it has a total of 27 ribbons each
tieing a little clutch of his very long hair. He, poor fellow, is
understandably, finding the experience hugely distressing. With Grandpapa
(the Minister) as M.C and after a very long prayer from the Minister from Omoka
the call for the honoured individuals to come and cut. We are pretty
sure this is done in order of seniority on the island. With so many folk
enlisted even Colin is in the pecking order, one from last. Most folk give
a little speech before the snip. Mama P's is of course the most
passionate. Goodness know what anyone says, it's all in Penrhyn
Maouri. It transpires that Ma P's passion and fist
shaking is just letting everyone know why she's doing the cutting and this is
due to family ties, of course. Finally he is given a full head shave
with a set of clippers, pretty darn difficult for the guy with the blades as
Johncin is in an ever increasing state of horror and is refusing to raise his
head above the cape. As each person takes the snipe it's then traditional
to post an envelope stuffed with cash into his hand. Once the shaving is
complete then he is honor with a beautifully hand woven hat with all the money
dangling off the brim. Quite an event, but still no one has seen a glimps
of poor 5 year old Johncins face.
Colin cutting
the 26th lock of hair
Johncin before and after after the event still trying
to escape - all the cash donations have been tied to his hat
Before the Kia Kia commences there's a massively
powerful hymn sung, goosebump sort of stuff, and then the big feed
commences. Due to fuel shortages the turn-out from the other village is
low, only about eight boats. But still the race for food is a
frenzy. Everyones plates are over loaded with a plethora of
flavours. There are of course a few who just hold back and observe.
We are urged to go 'kai kai' but I just want the bun fight to abait. With
everyone seated in little parties it doesn't take long for folk to return to the
buffet to gather yet more stuff, only this time it's for later, I still remain
shocked to see most chairs with large bottoms on them and a mountain of
doughnuts and lobster nestled beneath covered in clingfilm. The food is
delicious but so many different things it's impossible to sample a quarter of
the assortment. Even the Mayor arrives with a tray of doughnut that he
kindly orders us to take home, the kids are gleeful at the sight, but duly get
told to discreetly return them to the serving table. Two hours later
the whole event is over and we scurry off with two enormous lobsters for
tomorrows lunch.
The Mayor
singing, as with most of the men their eye remain closed during all
performances
The amazing thing about Cook kids is they are very
obedient, especially to there fathers. All the young folk of 14 up ,are
expected to and do, do all the clearing up, even after a meal on
this scale. This has with out a doubt been an wonderful sight for our
kids to observe. Whilst a lot of this seems to be rubbing off on
Zinnia, Cosmo continues to show signs of SOS (selective observation
syndrome).
More to
follow....... |