Puerto Escoses and Caledonia 8:50.31N 77:38.86W

Pacific Bliss
Colin Price
Mon 27 Sep 2010 13:59

Puerto Escoses and Caledonia

Colin and I both fell in love a bit with Cerreto and are expectations of the other visits along the chain of islands are that they will be far less remote with a greater influence from the developed world.

On the way up to the next village we stopped off to try and find Port Essco the fort where the disasterous Scottish  mission organised by Patterson (I think it was is brother who founded of the Bank of England weirdly enough) back in the 16th Century tried to lay down roots.  It turned out to be a really bad idea to try and establish themselves in the Americas as the chosen area was infested with diseased wildlife and by taking the trip the Scots managed to piss the Spanish off.  Thus meaning no one would trade with them and English were keeping their distance too.  The place back then was rampid with malaria and it seems that the trip was ill funded and ill provided for.  So all but a few of the 2000 folk died with in 2 year this put mega strain on Scotlands purse strings forcing them to ceed to English rule,  all a bit of a cock up really..............

Anyway we found a place we where able to land the dinghy and went off for a reky,  Our tour guide, Colin, got us lost but ever-intrepide we struggled through the jungle to find our dinghy for the return journey to our boat.  We knew nothing of the story at this stage but when Colin seemed keen to stay the night I felt super uncomfortable and managed to twist his arm to head on to the next anchorage outside the village of Caladonia.

Butterfly on our trip  
From a distance we felt rather sniffy about Caladonia but the anchorage was calm, safe and peaceful place with beautiful views to-boot.  It is also a good distance from the village so we didn't get bumped by young kids trying out there dug-out canoe paddling skills.
   Anchorage near to Caledonia was beautifully secluded and protected.  Ulus drifted past at 5.30 in the morning and we couldn't see any lights at all at night.

Our first impressions where not over enthusiastic, but with all these places, each village has it own charm.  The Kuna tax here was more than before but there was a restaurant, So a big treat for me plus saving our provisions.  It's been nearly 3 weeks now since we took on any supplies so the fresh stuff isn't looking quite so lively, the white cabbage of course is still faring up ok, I just wish i had bought 10.    Caladonia turned out to be a very special place, it's a beautiful kept village and we really where not hassled.  We were only asked twice if we were interested in buying mola's and one of the ladies turned out to be our favourite Mola Master she was really sweet.   The kids didn't really hassle our kids it was however the first time Z  had her hair stroked continueously,  but she didn't seem to mind this, and Cosmo's ball skills were put to the test again,  I think every espiring footy or basket ball player should hang out with these super short kids to fine tune there skills.

   LIttle restaurant where we parked the dinghy, had lunch and watched the ladies paddle by the window. Amazingly tranquil and great food - I think Colin's octopus in unimaginable-sauce was the triumph.   

  Humble village streets.  No cars, motobikes or anything much.    

    So third village lucky we were finding our feet and understanding Kuna communities more.  We are the object of fascination but we are not something to ever be smiled at,  Selina Castro, lovely mola maker,  was the first and probably the last smiling kuna we met.

   Caledonia is an island, so space is valued hence why the pigs are convenient place in pens on stilts over the water that fringe the island, basically it's self cleaning sties.  The village dunnies are situated in a similar area fringing the island so it's not a place to swim or dip your toes in the water anywhere close to the village.  Colin and I are considering having a similar method of husbandry when we get back, only I'm not sure the harbour conservancy would go a storm about it.