Our first time to
colon.
Colon we were told is not a place to linger, in fact whilst on a
shopping trip with a very nice North American lawyer who has lived in and
around panama for some time. He said he had once driven around downtown
colon at night in order to find a taxi his explination of the place was it
resembled something out of a Mad Max Movie. We have also heard many
other spin chilling stories about the place; one elderly English chap we know
told us not to even work the streets during daylight hours, he was mugged in
broad daylight only a mile up the road from the yacht club, and this is the
posh end of town. The other official referance to Colon is in Lonely
Planet "spawling slum of decaying colonial grandeur and desperate human
existence. ( nice)
Day one,
Secure anchor, not
easy walk to the super market, we are told this is ok in bright
daylight, but clearly not after pm. One friend of us was streamed
at by a local lady sitting out side the hospital for them to wait with her
unless they would rather be delivered back here by ambulance. A clear
message that we take taxi's everywhere.
Day two, We try and avoid
paying an
So all in all I have a pretty bleek picture in my mind it's
obvious Colin and I will have to be on my guard during our time here and
more particular trip the following day I am taking the kids, to see there
friends on Blue Sky. I suspect it didn't help the state
general angziaty after colin stating in front of the kids how careful i had
to be on my return, as he didn't fancy a dead wife.....
School was a
breeze this morning in question the kids are so very excited about seeing
Phoebe and Drake and there sleep over on the other side of the canal.
We hale a cab outside Club Nautico, it's advised you don't take a step out of
the pound. and unlike taxi's in the uk you do not have an exclusive car
you share it with anyone who manages to flag down the car and persuade the
driver to go in there direction. When we get in, we greet a lady
in her 60's who is ahead of us in the drop off, on our approach to down
town Colon things really start looking really rather neglected and as we pull
up to a building surrounded by boarding item seem to be falling from the sky,
presumably detritase from the upper apartments of the building.
A farwell to the nice lady and we are on our own, me still in the front
and the kids in the back. Moment later as we draw to a halt in trafic
the driver purposely leans across and locks the door the lady has just
exited through time for me and the kids to do the same. I am also
signaled to wind up my window. which is a bloody relief as I have been trying
seruptishisly nudge my bag under the seat with my feet. So
whilst I am now feeling bonified in my angsiaty it's not really helping in
the bigger picture, I still have to leave the cab and manovue to small
children in to the safe haven of the express bus to Panama. I pay the
guy and have to trust the driver that he has delivered me to the right
place. My only problem is when i took this bus before (not from colon)
it was smart new and white, this one in black and looking rather sorry for
itself, bugger i just feel like I'm being pointed toward the dark
side......
Safely on board, having tried to project an air of confidence
with the kids we spend 45 mins waiting for the bus to fill, Z is
glaring our of the window at the local deprevation and cosmo is content
waiting for a movie to start on the screens. This is no short hop it's
a 2 hour journey and I have to get back before dark.
Once we
arrived at our favourite mall (I have already spent 2 days at this hideous
place) we hook up with Blue Sky quickly through some bad junk food down our
necks, also something I had been dreading and I then had to venture off to
complete the christmas shopping. Finally having ticked most of
the Christmas list off but none of the stuff I was hoping to do I realise I
need to make tracks if I am going to get back safely. But famous
last words, the que for the express bus is monumental and when one leaves it
takes ab out 40 mins before the next one arrives. I have whilst in the
que started to eye-up folk that might want to help me. I am bloody rich
pickings as I have 1,000dollars cash, a portable dvd player and various kids
toys. So having restasured myself I will be ok I am checking the state
of light at every given minute. Eventurally a pluck up courage to
ask the man next to me on the bus if I will be able to find a taxi easily if
i go into the colon bus station. He doesn't speak any English, but
after a few attempt at understanding one another, it seems I will be fine and
there are musho musho taxi in central and he will help. I continue to
spend the rest of the journey concerned if I am making the right decision,
going in to colon after dark. This decision is against all advise and I
am feeling decidedly uncomfortable, the film playing isn't helping as
it's a scary sagorny weaver alien film. I finally opt for paying the
bus fare for the guy next to me, at least I know now we're
friends. He thanks me very much and then on his blackberry finds a
translasion for ' than you have a good trip' only there isn't any
!. 5 mins later he is up out of his seat and saying goodbye to the
daft, rather odd non bye lingual lady next to him. At this stage I
really start to fret. So now I try and call the nice taxi guy we
met yesterday but he doesn't understand me either. So at the next stop
I see it's somewhere I recognise, its about half way between Panama and
Colon. I up sticks pretty rapidly and follow afew folk who are
home. Joy of joys I pick up a cab pretty swiftly, it seems I am
the ideal customer this stage of the night, western and going back to
colon. But of course getting back to the gates of where we are moored
means going through the centre. I'm just so relieved I went with my gut
feel and didn't have to spend more than a minute in this city centre.
Again the driver thumped the auto locking system during our slow drive
through the middle.
When I finally got dropped off and I still was
feeling nervous driving around the docks by myself during darkness
without anyone knowing where I was. But back to base the rest was easy
all I had to do was walk through a dark dock to find the end, so I could try
and hollow Colin to pick me up, much to my relief when my call went out he
heard me so I was able to walk back into a better light area ready for
collection. God I needed a glass of something after today. I also
had to call Z as she was rather pre-occupied with my potential
demise.
Day 3 in Colon
It hasn't stopped raining....... this
means taxi's are double, which mean there are roughly double nothing, appart
from the westerns tax, which is totally fine. Colin and I have had
a lovely evening dining on fish and chips at the dockside cafe then back
home alone for a movie, perfect and the first time we have been without the
kids for an age.
You get luled to sleep here by the sound of frieght
being loaded on containerships and then you get abruptly woken by the tug
boat whizzing past on there way to maneova one of these big boys. It
seems we are fair sport for the tug boat drivers as the faster, closer they
can get to us produces such a wake that you feel your in the middle of the
ocean blowing a force 8.
Colin is off to collect the kids today but pre
that he needs to do all the official stuff of paying for our passage through
the canal and also get our Zarpe to allow us to travel back to the San
Blas. We decided to come and face Colon earlier than our exit throught
the canal so when we get back we are a hop ahead of ourselves.
It's
also a good opportunity to do our provisioning with out having to hire cars
or travel on countless over crowded chicken buses. Boy I am so glad
we have come. after colin departed for Panama I had to de cockroch 10
slabs of beer (in the ran on the back steps) ferry them in individually
disposing of all cardboard. Then I was picked up at the gate my our
friendly taxi driver and taken in his pickup to the supermarket. IT
STILL HAS NOT STOPPED RAINING AND BIG RAIN.
I arranged for the taxi to
return 2 hours later. and 2hrs 6 mins later I was ready for collection
with 3 trolleys load. this is all fine but I still have to get it back
to the boat which means loading the taxi, traveling through evil colon making
conversation with someone who can not speak English and I cannot get anyone
to understand me. We get to the dock and it then takes me 15mins to
bale the rain water out of the dinghy before I can start loading the bloody
thing. Luckily our taxi driver is worth waiting for and he delivers
each bag up a small jetty. But the journey isn't over yet. Once
loaded I then have to ferry to the boat and get all 30 bags mostly our back
packs on to the boat. I started this process at 11 this morning and
decided to call a halt at 9.15. The boat still looks like
a Midden, but gives a damn. Colin and the kid are now staying in Panama
for the night, the wind has just got up we have 2 noisey plastic bags taped
on to our stearing stations to aviod water dripping down into the cabins
and someone has decided to move there boat far too close, suspect I won't
get much sleep tonight. Haven't got a clue what I'll do if we start
dragging! ohhhh the glamour of life at
sea.......................................... but you know I really wouldn't
to miss this part, not one little bit.
|
|
Diary Entries
- 2013
- May 2013
- Apr 2013
- Tue 30 Apr
- Mon 08 Apr
- Mon 01 Apr
- Feb 2013
- Jan 2013
- Tue 29 Jan
- Thu 24 Jan
- Wed 23 Jan
- Mon 21 Jan
- Fri 18 Jan
- Thu 17 Jan
- Tue 15 Jan
- Sun 13 Jan
- Sat 12 Jan
- Thu 10 Jan
- Wed 09 Jan
- Tue 08 Jan
- Mon 07 Jan
- Sun 06 Jan
- Fri 04 Jan
- Thu 03 Jan
- Tue 01 Jan
- 2012
- Dec 2012
- Mon 31 Dec
- Sun 30 Dec
- Fri 28 Dec
- Tue 04 Dec
- Sat 01 Dec
- Nov 2012
- Thu 29 Nov
- Sun 11 Nov
- Sat 10 Nov
- Mon 05 Nov
- Sun 04 Nov
- Sat 03 Nov
- Oct 2012
- Sun 28 Oct
- Tue 23 Oct
- Sat 20 Oct
- Tue 16 Oct
- Sat 13 Oct
- Wed 10 Oct
- Fri 05 Oct
- Wed 03 Oct
- Sep 2012
- Sun 23 Sep
- Thu 20 Sep
- Mon 17 Sep
- Sun 16 Sep
- Sat 15 Sep
- Mon 10 Sep
- Sun 09 Sep
- Aug 2012
- Wed 08 Aug
- Tue 07 Aug
- Sun 05 Aug
- Fri 03 Aug
- Jul 2012
- Thu 26 Jul
- Wed 25 Jul
- Fri 20 Jul
- Sun 15 Jul
- Sat 14 Jul
- Mon 02 Jul
- Sun 01 Jul
- Jun 2012
- Thu 28 Jun
- Thu 14 Jun
- Wed 06 Jun
- Tue 05 Jun
- Mon 04 Jun
- Sun 03 Jun
- Sat 02 Jun
- Fri 01 Jun
- May 2012
- Mon 28 May
- Sat 26 May
- Fri 25 May
- Thu 24 May
- Wed 23 May
- Tue 22 May
- Sun 20 May
- Fri 18 May
- Sat 12 May
- Thu 10 May
- Sat 05 May
- Wed 02 May
- Tue 01 May
- Apr 2012
- Thu 19 Apr
- Fri 13 Apr
- Thu 12 Apr
- Wed 11 Apr
- Tue 10 Apr
- Mon 09 Apr
- Fri 06 Apr
- Wed 04 Apr
- Mar 2012
- Mon 19 Mar
- Sun 18 Mar
- Sat 17 Mar
- Feb 2012
- Sun 19 Feb
- Sat 18 Feb
- Fri 17 Feb
- Fri 10 Feb
- Thu 09 Feb
- Sun 05 Feb
- Sat 04 Feb
- Jan 2012
- Sun 29 Jan
- Sat 28 Jan
- Mon 16 Jan
- Sun 15 Jan
- Fri 06 Jan
- Tue 03 Jan
- 2011
- Dec 2011
- Tue 27 Dec
- Sun 25 Dec
- Sat 24 Dec
- Mon 19 Dec
- Tue 13 Dec
- Fri 09 Dec
- Thu 08 Dec
- Wed 07 Dec
- Tue 06 Dec
- Mon 05 Dec
- Sun 04 Dec
- Sat 03 Dec
- Nov 2011
- Mon 28 Nov
- Sun 27 Nov
- Sat 26 Nov
- Thu 24 Nov
- Thu 17 Nov
- Mon 14 Nov
- Sat 12 Nov
- Oct 2011
- Mon 10 Oct
- Sun 09 Oct
- Thu 06 Oct
- Wed 05 Oct
- Tue 04 Oct
- Sat 01 Oct
- Sep 2011
- Mon 26 Sep
- Sun 25 Sep
- Wed 21 Sep
- Mon 12 Sep
- Mon 05 Sep
- Sat 03 Sep
- Aug 2011
- Thu 25 Aug
- Wed 24 Aug
- Fri 19 Aug
- Wed 17 Aug
- Tue 16 Aug
- Mon 15 Aug
- Sat 06 Aug
- Jul 2011
- Jun 2011
- Tue 28 Jun
- Wed 22 Jun
- Tue 21 Jun
- Sat 18 Jun
- Fri 17 Jun
- Tue 14 Jun
- May 2011
- Apr 2011
- Wed 27 Apr
- Sat 23 Apr
- Wed 20 Apr
- Wed 13 Apr
- Tue 12 Apr
- Fri 08 Apr
- Mar 2011
- Tue 15 Mar
- Tue 08 Mar
- Tue 01 Mar
- Feb 2011
- Fri 18 Feb
- Mon 14 Feb
- Sat 12 Feb
- Fri 04 Feb
- Jan 2011
- Mon 31 Jan
- Thu 27 Jan
- Tue 25 Jan
- Mon 24 Jan
- Thu 20 Jan
- Thu 06 Jan
- Tue 04 Jan
- 2010
- Dec 2010
- Thu 30 Dec
- Sat 25 Dec
- Wed 15 Dec
- Tue 07 Dec
- Nov 2010
- Fri 26 Nov
- Wed 17 Nov
- Thu 04 Nov
- Oct 2010
- Sat 16 Oct
- Thu 07 Oct
- Sat 02 Oct
- Fri 01 Oct
- Sep 2010
- Thu 30 Sep
- Tue 28 Sep
- Mon 27 Sep
- Thu 23 Sep
- Wed 22 Sep
- Sat 18 Sep
- Wed 15 Sep
- Wed 08 Sep
- Wed 01 Sep
- Aug 2010
- Mon 30 Aug
- Sun 29 Aug
- Tue 10 Aug
- Thu 05 Aug
- Sun 01 Aug
- Jul 2010
- Jun 2010
- Thu 24 Jun
- Tue 22 Jun
- Tue 08 Jun
- Wed 02 Jun
- Tue 01 Jun
- May 2010
- Wed 26 May
- Thu 20 May
- Thu 13 May
- Tue 11 May
- Thu 06 May
- Tue 04 May
- Sat 01 May
- Apr 2010
- Fri 16 Apr
- Tue 06 Apr
- Thu 01 Apr
- Mar 2010
- Sun 14 Mar
- Thu 11 Mar
- Sat 06 Mar
- Mon 01 Mar
- Feb 2010
- Sun 28 Feb
- Sat 27 Feb
- Fri 12 Feb
- Wed 10 Feb
- Tue 02 Feb
- Jan 2010
- Sun 31 Jan
- Tue 26 Jan
- Sat 23 Jan
- Mon 18 Jan
- Mon 11 Jan
- Tue 05 Jan
- 2009
- Dec 2009
- Sun 20 Dec
- Sat 19 Dec
- Fri 18 Dec
- Thu 17 Dec
- Wed 16 Dec
- Mon 14 Dec
- Sun 13 Dec
- Sat 12 Dec
- Fri 11 Dec
- Thu 10 Dec
- Wed 09 Dec
- Tue 08 Dec
- Mon 07 Dec
- Sun 06 Dec
- Sat 05 Dec
- Fri 04 Dec
- Thu 03 Dec
- Wed 02 Dec
- Tue 01 Dec
- Sep 2009
- Aug 2009
|