Vulcano - Straits of Messina - Riposta

Mor Toad / Moy Toad
David and Jocelyn Fawcett
Thu 5 Oct 2017 15:39
37:53.84N
15:12.42E
Yesterday morning we left our peaceful anchorage just as the sun came up. No one else stirring and all quiet.

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In the distance you could just see the smoking rim of the Gran Cratere that we had climbed the previous day

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We were heading for the Straits of Messina to start our journey down the east coast of Sicily. The north coast was pretty mountainous with a belt of building all along the coast and beaches. We thought we should see Etna but the clouds were down.

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No wind but all quite calm and the early start was to try and get through the straits with the tide. Lots of stories told about strong winds and tides and eddies/ whirlpools. At the top end only 1.5 miles wide between Sicily and Italy widening out to 7.5 at the southern end - a busy shipping lane and a lot of ferries.

We appeared to be the only yacht around and there were a lot of ferries but little other big shipping. We seemed to have the tide with us to start with but then all over the place. We'd had the wind on the nose going across and motored but we thought once we turned 90 degs. then should be able to sail down the Straits. No not to be - the wind was still on the nose! By now the sea was pretty lumpy and clouds thickening, coast line both sides pretty built up and industrial and we could have stopped in Messina but it held no appeal. So we carried on motoring with the mainsail up to try and stop the rolling. Generally pretty uncomfortable and then it started raining!! Warm enough:-)

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As it started widening out the Sicilian coastline became more interesting

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However it started raining harder and by 4 o'clock pretty tired so chocolate needed with a cup of tea!

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As we got closer to Taormina where we now wanted to stay the heavens really opened the sea was pretty rough the bay we'd hoped to go into was innacesible with the swell and the harbour there pretty exposed!! So nothing for it we rang the next big marina at Riposta and asked for a berth for the night and said we'd be there just after 6. So onward we rolled getting wetter and wetter - boat wouldn't need a wash! . Although inland everything was looking pretty black the sea had changed colour to a turquoise blue which was odd as there was definitely no sun!

Going through the Straits you go from the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Ionian Sea and the tidal streams are caused by the different high and low waters between the two. Apparently the Tyrrenhian Sea is warmer and less salty than the Ionian and the different densities set up currents too . So all in all together with wind it can be an interesting place to sail through.

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Taormina

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Sea now turquoise!

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Berthed at last

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As we got near the marina we called them up on channel 74 and a guy came out in a small rib to meet us and to show us where to go he was also very helpful in getting the bow ropes on as they are always tricky. Great as by now I was certainly finished .

Once tied up! paperwork dealt with at the marina office, a glass of wine ( or 2!!) and steak for supper it was an early night.