LIpari and Vulcano
Mor Toad / Moy Toad
David and Jocelyn Fawcett
Tue 3 Oct 2017 15:13
We arrived in LIpari on Saturday afternoon having motored from Stromboli. After having a look round as we didn't fancy the marina so we looked at an anchorage on the south side of the bay which we really fancied but no one else there and wasn't an anchorage on the charts but with the help of google maps I identified the hotel we could see and rang them to see if we could use the one buoy - just thought we'd try and yes we could for €50 but sadly we were too big (long) which was a shame but interesting what information one can get from google maps - we couldn't even see the name of the hotel from the sea. So we motored back into the main bay and decided that we'd go into one of the pontoons and interestingly once close we were being beckoned by chaps on shore to use theirs . We in the event went as far away from where the ferries were coming in to one called LIpari Services. 2 really helpful guys who basically asked could they come on board and did all the tying up for us and we for the first time were alongside the pontoon as opposed to stern to. They even brought us steps to get on and off. We thought great only boat there however by the time we came back from a walk into town there were several large catamarans and other yachts on the pontoon all Dream Charter boats with a lot of quite noisy British youth on board. I'll say no more !! They did actually disappear into town and we had supper in peace and didn't hear them again. They left Sunday morning. In spite of the ferries coming in and out - thankfully not all night- it was a quiet night.
Sunday we walked into town again explored the citadel above the town and went into the archaeology museum - a lot of pots and broken pottery - both from excavations and sunken ships. Bronze Age through Greek occupation and trading throughout the Mediterranean. The Duoma had the most beautiful painted ceiling but as there was a service going on couldn't take a picture. After this we walked through the old part of town down to another harbour and had lunch down there before wandering back to the boat. Lot of tourist boats coming in and out, lot of people wandering around and a lot of shops selling the usual stuff for tourists. We did quite like the town and once the shops close at 1 and away from the main tourist area it was very pleasant - little alleyways with coloured houses and ornate balconies
On the way back we did a supermarket shop and then retreated to the boat. This time two huge skippered Catamarans on the pontoon with Chinese on board. Again noise levels quite loud and yes we are becoming less tolerant of noisy people give us a quiet anchorage anytime ! It wasn't a good night though because a swell had developed and the boat on the floating pontoons was all over the place and one of the ropes we discovered the next morning had been well worn through.
So yesterday morning we left and again no wind but motored round LIpari - past where they used to mine for Pumice - huge white scar on the coastline. Very little to see quite a green island but once we were at the south end very close to our last island Vulcano coloured cliffs and rock stacks. Up till now we haven't seen a lot of yachts but this has changed. Not only did we see a lot leaving the anchorage Porto Di Pantene where we intended to go on Vulcano but once in there were about 30 yachts but thankfully enough space for one more. The main port just round the other side of the isthmus faces the swell and is where the ferries come into so one can see why everyone chooses here.
Certainly the best anchorage we've found yet in spite of all the other boats and calm . Looking back out to sea you can see the southern end of LIpari, the twin peaks of Salina and in the distance the first island we visited Felicudi. Behind the bay of black sand there are a number of white low rise hotels and houses and behind them a huge hill which is the Gran Cratere just waiting to be climbed.
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