Day 7 Olla to Caleta Cinco Estrellas
The next glacier along the Brazo Noroeste of the Beagle was the Italia and it must have calved heavily early this morning as there was brash ice scattered everywhere. As we approached the snout, it became impossible to avoid all the ice as it stretched out in a long ribbon right across the channel and we needed to get through it. Melting icebergs make the same sound as Kellogg’s Rice Crispies when you pour milk on your cereal bowl. Caramor sneaked gingerly between the ice blocks and soon she was in clear water again.
Our original plan was to travel 12 miles to Caleta Morning in Bahia Romanche, however the forecast is not good so we decided to head for a very sheltered cove 28 miles west where we can easily get ashore to go for walks. Caleta Cinco Estrellas (Five Stars Cove) got its name from a charter yacht that used to visit. The skipper had drawn stars on his chart to rate the anchorages and a crew member thought ‘five stars’ was the name rather than the rating. The name stuck.
The day is overcast and the temperature 6 degrees Celsius, very warm for this time of year though July and August are the coldest months so there is still plenty of time to learn how to shiver. I had been hoping for a crystal clear blue sky and bright sunshine to illuminate the breathtaking landscape. As we sailed along I lost count of how many glaciers we passed, some winding their way down to the sea like majestic rivers, others clinging to the side of the mountain with spectacular waterfalls dropping into the depths.
Again we were able to sail part of the way, helped along by the gusts falling off the glacial cliffs but eventually the wind died completely and we motored. We passed a fishing boat but were too far away to wave and soon afterwards turned towards Isla Gordon and the Bahia Tres Brazos (Three Arms) and the hidden shelter of Caleta Cinco Estrellas.
Franco preparing the bow line. Cinco Estrellas is still hidden from view.