17.6S; 167.53W
Around the world with the Aqualunies
Jonathan & Gabrielle Lyne
Tue 22 Jun 2010 16:29
AT SEA, TUESDAY 22ND JUNE, 2010
A long time since I wrote the last blog. We have been having loads of
fun on Suwarrrow an atoll in the middle of nowhere.
Following on from my last blog. We got up early the next morning at
low tide and started clearing rocks and old bits of peir from the channel into
the dingy dock so that the outboard engines have less chance of grindng on a
rock. We did well and the engineering and building prowess of some of the
guys came out as they built steps to make it easier to get from the dingy to the
dock dry. The rest of the day was spent lazing around, the wind was
getting up and blowing at 20 knots but we were firmly anchored in sand. We ate
on board that night. The following day Apii organised a Coconut crab
hunt. He picked us up in the fishing boat along with the Miss Tippy family
and the others from the yacht Compass Rose. We set off for Turtle Island, we
could only go so far and then had to wade to the island wearing reef shoes. We
did quite a long walk first going around a small Muto full of birds nesting from
Boobies to Frigate Birds then waded across to Turtle Island and with machete
knives made our way into the bush which was full of Coconut trees and Pampas
trees which have serated leaves and aerial roots. The Coconut Crabs live
in holes under the roots of various trees and bushes. You have to wear gardening
gloves to get them, their claws are huge and strong made for breaking open
coconuts so they could break your fingers. One of the largest we
pulled out was 18'' long and weighed about 3lb, they are enormous. They
climb the coconut trees break off a coconut then climb down to break it open and
eat it. We killed a few for dinner and some we took back alive to
recolonize Anchorage Island which only had a few small ones. Photos will
follow once I am on wifi.
That night we decided to celebrate Donald Hughes 61st Birthday a day early
as we sadly had to leave for Nuie the next day.
I baked a chocolae cake birthday cake and made a Tart Tatin, Setzchwan
Auberigines I also marinated some lamb and chicken, the later we did not cook in
the end as there was so much crab to eat whic we ate with fresh green salad
provided by ourselves and Miss Tippy, Rice, Noodles cooked by Apii and James and
a potatoe salad, raw fish marinated in Coconut and lime and a curry so it was
quite a feast shared by the three yachts in the bay along with Apii and James.
Again photos will follow.
Apii and James are real charactors. James who is the senior of the
two is 58 yrs old and looks just like Hagrid in the Harry Potter films, his hair
is long but he wears it up in a bun, he has a long beard, white in the middle,
he is huge with lots of polonesian tatoos on his arms. James was a builder
by trade and a bit of a lad at that, he has been married three times, born and
brought up in New Zealand, where he lived in the bush and knows all the ways of
the bush. Apii was an engineer by trade, much younger polonesian
with tatoos and earrings. They had applied to be wardens several times and
eventually got the job. They only arrived 2 weeks before us. Whilst
on the island they have to look after it, repair things and make sure the
yachties behave themselves. They are also Customs and Immigration
Officers! The suppply ship with all their survival equipment has not yet arrived
so they were running short of fuel. We gave them a tank of fuel for their
outboard and Miss Tippy gave them some gas for their gas rings.
We had to leave on Sunday in order to spend anytime in Nuie before heading
off to Tonga. We left after a BBQ luch ashore, it was raining, a low had
arrived the winds were getting stronger. We mangaged, along with Miss
Tippy, to get out of the reef before it became too rough. Before we left with
fond fell wells to Apii and James and 'We will be back!' we were asked to plant
some trees 'Aqualuna' planted a Coconut tree the Children from Miss Tippy
planted Advocado trees.
Two miles out and the winds really hit, we have just been through winds
ranging from 25 - 40 knots in very rough seas and shipping quite a few as
well. We have taken it in turns to do 3 hour watches, life jackets on and
strapped on as well. The sea has been much rougher than the Atlantic or
Pacific as it is very lumpy with breaking tops, one hit us with huge force with
a bang and broke over us at the same time yesterday which sent anything not
stowed properly flying as we were knocked sideways. Aqualuna being the
stead she is has coped very well. We have been trecking along at 7 - 9
knots. Unfortuately on our first eveing having cooked dinner I was sea sick, but
felt much better after, hadn't been sea sick since the Bay of Biscay when we
were in 49 knots of wind. Only had a yogurt and honey that night whilst
'the boys' tucked into pasta with bolonaise sauce. I had that for lunch
the next day having not eaten properly for 24 hours.
The winds dissapated a little during the night now we are getting about 20
knots so have taken a reef out of the main sail and let the staisail out
completly the sea is a little less rough and more comfortable. We
hope to arrive in Nuie tomorrow.
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