Thursday 28th January, '10

 

Waves of approx 15' during the night, winds 25 - 30 knots, black clouds, but a full moon so some light. Did wonder sometimes whether the wave rearing up behind us would break over us or lift us up, but of course it did lift us up and we surfed down, the odd rough one would catch us on our quarter and get us a bit wet.  I awoke at 7am to hear the fishing line running, rushed up on deck to find J on his own.  Took the wheel, brought her up into wind to slow her down and kept her like that whilst J reeled in all the line which had run out fully on the end of which was a 30 lb Dorado.  Back on course heading for our next way point just outside the reef, when J did an involunatary gybe and broke the shackle of the main sheet.  So back up into wind in what was still a pretty rough sea whilst he fixed a temporary line to keep the boom in, dropped the main and motored in towards the reef.  That was the third thing that happened so with luck no more. 

Eventually arrived, using the waypoints J had put in, off Achutupu where we dropped anchor.  Janice and Tony, J's sister and brother-in-law, arrived just as we had dropped anchor, brought over from the airprot on the mainland in a dug out canoe; sadly I didn't get a 'photo. 

Jonathan sat on the aft deck filleting the Dorado and has given a fisherman the head and tail in exchange for some lobster which he said he would deliver tomorrow morning.,We will see.  I have just made some ceviche sauce to marinade some of the Dorado chunks in, the lime will cook it, so that will be our starter tonight before Dorado steaks. 

Visited the village this afternoon for a walk, the head man was not there so we were not asked for any money to pay the 'visitors tax'.  Lots of very excited children and ladies in traditional dress, with beads, like socks around their legs in intricate patterns, rings through their noses and blouses with intricate mola work.  They displayed some Molas for us so have bought a couple to take home as did Janice.  The flag poles were great fun, bamboo poles with upturned plastic bottles with a handle on to act as the pulley. I sugggested to J that we had one at the top of our mast instead of the shepherds crook.  

Lots of bamboo and grass huts in compounds surrounded by bamboo fencing.  Sadly they are leaving their plastic rubbish just floating in the lagoon so it is not very clean.  The dugout canoes with sails made with whatever cloth they can get hold of are fantastic, very fast. They use them as transport between the islands and fishing out to the outer reef. The trade wind in here is still very strong, it is grey and cloudy and we even had a touch of rain, but it is warm. It is good to be in shelter from the raging sea outside.  Tomorrow we plan to pick our way up the inside of the reef to some other islands, eventually joining some of the other Blue Water Rally yachts at Porvenir, but better than trying to sail straight up there with the huge sea hitting us side on.