Thursday, 6th May, 2010

INSIDE FAKARAVA ATOLL   

Comng into this atoll at 6.30 am yesterday was interesting, big rolling waves to go through before we hit the calm and then worked our way in with waypoints through the reefs, Jonathan has nerves of steel and dead calm which you need to be.

We are at the moment sailing with 30 knot squalls inside the atoll up to the northern side of the atoll, with some BWR yachts following us so we will be the first casualty if we find a hidden reef.

  A very different day from yesterday where we had good sunshine, crystal clear waters, swimming off the yacht, walking in a small village with rattan houses on white coral sandy beaches.  We went snorkeling off the dinghies and looked at beautiful coral and colourful fish, a couple of large balck tipped sharks coasted past us as we stayed dead still, a sucker fish decided that attaching itself to my stomach was rather fun, but felt most peculiar so I brushed it off, then it tried Jonathan but his stomach was too hairy!!

Last night a guy who owns a small guest house complex, all home made of ratten and bamboo, invited all the yachts at anchor just off his bit of atoll, over to use his premises for a party, so we all bought along booze and food and had a great time meeting other yachties as well as being with  five other BWR yachts, it was great fun, dress informal, bare feet, kaftans thrown over bikinies or costumes.  He has no guests at the moment as it is out of season and his wife was away visiting relatives, he was lonely as nobody else has a place near him so he decided to open it up to all of us.  Standing on the deck of the house which hung out over the water watching the fish and reef sharks swimming underneath and looking around the complex which was full of rustic, elegant simplicity with drift wood, shells and palm leaf sculptures everywhere.  His little atoll is joined to another by a bridge and so on but quite a good walk to the settelment, not village really as no shops, ruined cement houses in some areas built in the 1800s when missionaries were there, the only intact solid building is now the small church, all the other houses are ratten.  As we dinghied in we had to be careful of coral heads which lie just under the water and can break the outboard.  These atolls are very low and get flooded in huge storms and would be wipped out if a large Tsunami struck.  The tallest thing is the coconut tree and the odd communications mast.  No wifi here so can't send any 'photos yet as only on satalite which this will go via.  When I can I have some great 'photos to download for you to look at.  But that may not be until we reach Papeete in Tahiti next week.