16.38S; 143.34W

Around the world with the Aqualunies
Jonathan & Gabrielle Lyne
Tue 4 May 2010 01:54
Monday, 3rd May, 2010
Having left Hiva Oa on Wednesday 25th we sailed for Fatu Hiva,  the scenery as we arrived in the bay was dramatic and you tell why it was called the Bay of Vierges because of it's phallic shaped rocks, the missionaries who arrived later changed it to the Bay of Virgins by taking out the 'i' from Vierges.  On our last night there we had dinner at a family's house they asked there when they met us in the village so for 15 euros each we had local food of bread fruit, marinated raw fish in coconut juice, chicken roasted red bananas, papaya salad and grapefruit for desert.  The family sat with us and another couple from another yacht and we found out that satellite television was introduced to the island in 1996 and since then life had changed a lot some for the good but also some for the bad as innocence had been lost amongst the young.  They are also building a new road a lot EU money is going into the modernisation of the islands as they are a French Department.  We bought lots of fruit for the yacht by barter for half a bottle of rum which they asked us for as they drink it during the French Bastille day celebrations.
Early the following morning we upped anchor and motored around the corner to try to land in Omoa, but it was a huge surf even into the small harbour, the reason we wanted to call in there was to pick up some French bread and to look at tapas (the bark cloth) being made.  The once a fortnight supply ship was at anchor as well with landing craft carrying supplies. including 4x4s into the harbour which made it even more impossible for us to land so we gave up on the idea and set sail for the Tuamotus Islands.  It took us two and a half days to get there, the three of us did three hourly night watches and never lost the wind which averaged 15 knots.  We had a few rain squalls through at night which meant winding the genoa in and out quite a bit.  We had to slow down last night as we were going too fast and would have arrived at the reef at 1-am, not recommended to attempt to go in in the dark.  So with just the genoa up and reefed in we pottered along for most of the night at about 2 -3 knots.  I spotted the lights of Makemo at 3.30 am we eventually went through the reef entrance at 6.30am. Went ashore for breakfast, lots of friendly 'Bonjours', got some more food at the supermarket and French bread.  We plan to stay here for the night and then try to catch up with some of the other BWR yachts which are at the NW end of the reef.  The reef is 30 miles long and 10 miles wide, the calm water is crystal clear turquoise with lots of brown coral heads, so the Polaroid glasses have to be worn as we head for the NW end tomorrow. More 'photos below:-


Cliff formation Fatu Hiva

 



The anchorage in the Bay of Vierges

 



The Verges in the Bay of Vierges

 



The walk to the waterfall, Fatu Hiva

 



Jonathan & Gabrielle at bottom of waterfall Fatu Hiva

 



The hills above the valley, Fatu Hiva

 



Coming into the Bay of Omoa, note the spray from breaking waves

 



First close view of Makemo, Tuamotus islands

 



The village at Makemo, Tuomotus islands

 



Old house in Makemo, Tuomotus islands

 



Aqualuna at anchor in Makemo