A Marie Celeste guest harbour

Moorglade's Voyage
Ted Wilson
Thu 9 Jun 2016 10:20

Our position is 59:30.11N 18:50.731E

Distance covered 7.4 Nm

The next day we planned a short sail, leaving in the afternoon once the strong winds had passed and intended to aim for a guest harbour where we could replenish supplies and fill up with water. The weather had returned to sunshine after the wind and rain of the night and morning and we motored North covering the short distance to Husaro – rated 3 stars in the Gasthamns Guiden – in just over an hour and a half in spite of problems with the autohelm. We barely had time to finish our afternoon tea before we had arrived.

This working boat seemed to be examining the cable along the far side of Krokholmviken

 Wondering if the anchor will come up

 

Still cleaning as we head for the way out but we made it without incident

Just a reminder to keep the right side of the marks

We were surprised to find none of the promised booms or buoys attached to the pontoon and a small dinghy occupying the only place we could tie up alongside on the windward side of the pontoon.  Undaunted we tied to the other side. It became apparent that the pontoon was made up of several sections and the ones to seaward of where we were weren’t attached to each other, however we were able to get ashore, although the join of our pontoon to the one connected to the land had obviously suffered damage.

 

Approaching Husaro

Splendid isolation

 

After changing the socket for the autohelm, and then checking all the other sockets on deck, we went ashore for a walk round. Although regular ferries call at the island (causing some wash at the guest pontoon) there was practically nobody around. A man with a barrow passed by and in response to a query about whether the harbour opened, vouchsafed that “they might come back in the middle of June”, before hurrying on with his (empty) barrow.

In spite of signposts we failed to find the promised museum or any sign of a restaurant mentioned in the pilot book. There was a café, which was going to open on 13 June, but we couldn’t track down a source of supplies or water. The one thing we managed was thankfully to dispose of our rubbish. Apart from the man with the barrow the only other people we saw were a woman who emerged suddenly from a kind of cellar under a building and hurried off before I could engage her in conversation and a man on a bike carrying a metal tray. A couple got off a ferry and loaded quite a lot of stuff, including a cat in a basket, into one of the trolleys heaped up at the harbour side and we followed them up quite a steep hill. The guy seemed to be struggling with the pushing but the woman with him wasn’t helping so we didn’t like to offer. Later another couple appeared to meet 2 people of the last ferry of the day and helped them with a similar collection of stuff (apart from the cat) but most of the island seemed shut up and deserted.

Barrows near the ferry landing

This pitch looks a bit undersized

 The saw bench seemed to have given up before much of a winter supply had been achieved

We thought the small hut might be for smoking fish

The communications centre??

  Several posh boat houses but mostly empty – guess it’s different in July

  Lovely flowers although the lilac we enjoyed earlier in the trip is over now

 

These were the island’s main roads