Our position is 30:45.895N 81:28.328W

We left Fernandina beach after refuelling and pumping out. The cold wind had dropped, there was a light breeze and it was hot and sunny. An hour and a half later we were anchoring off the Ranger Station on Cumberland Island; there had been no delays from submarine presence in Cumberland Sound, possible as the Kings Bay submarine base was visible across the water. Soon after arriving Another Adventure anchored near us and after some discussion it was agreed that John and Travis would join us at 9am the next day for a walk on the island.

Dinner that night was barbequed steak, how surreal is that when you are anchored some way off shore. Ted did the honours cooking the meat to everyone’s personal taste and John sorted mushrooms, tomatoes and fried onions. We ate a delicious meal on deck and could see some wild horses on the beach and also a racoon scurrying along.

John and Travis joined us the next morning to explore the island; acting on information from the ranger’s office we took the woodland path to the ruined mansion at Dungeness, holiday home to the Carnegie family at the turn of the 19^th century. The grand house was now a ruin but the bones of previous grandeur could still be seen in the pergola walk, lawns, fountain and what could have been a swimming pool area. A row of cars had been left to rust into the ground, the wild horses now running free were likely descendants of earlier stable horses. The restrooms, in what had been the servants quarters, housed a small museum that acknowledged the black servants on the estate in photographs lining the walls, a kitchen range and a large mangle were still in situ.

On leaving the estate the path passed through more woods before emerging on a boardwalk over reed swamps. Along the way several varieties of butterflies were seen, reminding us of the myriads we had seen earlier in the trip fluttering over the river for miles on the way to Daytona Beach, we must have caught a hatching! The boardwalk led to the sand dunes which had brilliant white sand and on cresting these the Atlantic stretched out in front of us. Only John T and Travis braved the water, the beach was covered in groups of waders and there were only two other people near us. Once the intrepid swimmers were dressed we continued along the beach for about a mile before turning inland to return to the Ranger’s office. To get there we passed through a camp site with a few residents and a couple of bikers, the place was not exactly heaving. Then it was back to the boat for lunch (for us) and stripping the engine down yet again (for Another Adventure).

Range marker in Cumberland Sound (no nuclear subs though)                         Cumberland Island Rangers boat at the dock by the anchorage

Steak on the BBQ                                                                                              is enjoyed by all

Wild horses roam the island descended from the Carnegies' carriage horses                     Coming ashore

Ted and John discuss the route                                                                 Travis and Kath get on with it

The men follow behind (they know their place!)                                          Pergola walk at Dungeness

The ruined house

The recreation buildings - now a bit worse for wear

The auto graveyard

The history of the island in one page                                  Modern forms of transport in the carriage house

Servants range in the old laundry                                                           You'd need to be strong to use this mangle

Wild turkeys roam the grounds                                                             and butterflies abound

but right next door are the desolate marshes                                            The boardwalk provides access to the beach across the marshy area

and telescopes for bird watching                                                                the trek up the dunes

to a completely deserted beach                                                                   well - perhaps not completely deserted

John and Travis discussing a swim                                                          Is this Reggie Perrin?

and they're in                                                                                       The amused audience

          Farewell to John and Travis